Any ideas which reasonably good quality campismos on the seaside accept mixed couples (if not in theory, than maybe in practice, subject una propina)? Some guides recommend Villa Guajimico south of Cienfuegos, but don't mention if it is 'mixed' or not.

Villa Guajimico which is south-east of Cienfuegos (just south you would be in the Caribbean Sea) was a campismo at one time but is now run as a hotel costing about 50-60 CUC's a night (December 2005). There were certainly Cubans there and tourists there when we were there but since it is run as a hotel, I don't think you could stay there with a Cubana without showing a marriage licence. I didn't try, and sorry, never thought I would need the information so I didn't even ask --- so don't take this as the final word. The food is awful, btw, and the only close alternative is a roadside shack about a 20 minute walk away.
Try a casa at Rancho Luna near Cienfuegos instead. There are several not far from the seaside.


Good discription of the average campismo, Poschmcdoo. Although a ghetto blaster would be a welcome respite in most of the campismos where I have had the misfortune to spend a weekend night. What they typically have is an outdoor amplifier the size of a VW, which goes from about 9:30 AM right on through the night. (I do not know WHEN those kids sleep!) My theory is that most campismo cottages are built of cement block not merely to withstand hurricanes, but to withstand the sound waves coming from those sound systems.
GRAYWOLF: You can tell which campismos for sure accept foreign guests as well as Cubans. But there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY to know whether a given campismo manager will allow you and your sweetie to SHARE a campismo cottage. You might have to rent two cottages, one for each of you. If you are allowed to share, you should be prepared for the fact that the beds are mostly narrow bunks. I have stayed in only a few which had regular twin beds, and none have double beds. The best campismos I know of, which do accept both foreigners and Cubans, are:
LA VICTORIA: on the beach at Playa Baracoa, about 25 km west of Havana. I recall it being 15 CUC/night, which means that the licenced casas across the street, which mostly went for 20-25 CUC, were a better value.
RIO SAN JUAN: 1 km west of Las Terrazas, in the biosphere reserve, teepee-type cottages scattered across a meadow overlooking the river which just here falls into pools wonderful for swimming. Small, decent restaurant likewise overlooking river. One of my favorites of all the campismos.
DOS HERMANOS: about 2 km west of Vinales, in amongst the mogotes. Pool and restaurant (mediocre but cheap).
LA MULA: on the beach about 125 km west of Santiago. Likewise 15 CUC/night. Both open ocean swimming and swimming in shady, fresh-water lagoon. Terrible food. (Best to walk into nearby village and arrage for someone to prepare a meal for you. No towns or restaurants nearby.)
PLAYA LOS COLORADOS: on south coast about 50 km from Manzanillo. Long lovely beach. Fishers and other folks in community will gladly prepare fresh seafood meal and bring it to your cottage. This is my other favorite campismo. That said, all the qualifications and limitations mentioned my Poschmcdoo apply. Take ample insect repellant, or better yet, a mosquito net and lots of cord for tying it up.