Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

12-night Itinerary Suggestions

Country forums / Central America / Guatemala

Hello All,

I am planning a 12-night trip in Central America. I will be flying into Guatemala City Wednesday afternoon (landing @1300) and flying out Monday night (departing @1930). Here is the itinerary I've come up with so far. I think most of it seems alright, but trying to figure out how I should balance my time/energy between San Juan del Sur/Ometepe/Granada.

Sidenote, I have the energy to be up and about through most of the day, I prefer laid back, nice beaches, and hiking over partying and tourist traps, but would not be opposed to some nightlife at least.

Any and all suggestions welcome!

Wednesday – Antigua or Lake Atitlan
Thursday – Lake Atitlan
Friday – Antigua
Saturday – Antigua => El Cuco
Sunday – El Cuco
Monday – El Cuco => San Juan Del Sur
Tuesday – Ometepe
Wednesday – Granada
Thursday – Granada => Copan
Friday – Copan
Saturday – Copan => Rio Dulce
Sunday – Rio Dulce
Monday – Back to GC

What are your 2-3 main interests for this trip, hiking, beaches, etc.?
I'll be honest, your trip is silly, down right silly. You can't travel from El Tunco to SJDS in one day, same for Granada to Copan, well I guess you can technically, but it's all travel. The whole trip is way to rushed.

What time of year is this trip? Do you already have you flights booked? Travel is very slow in Central America.

With 12 days you have time for Antigua, time on the Lake, Tikal and Dulce if you fly one way to Flores, still lot of moving but doable at least. Unless you really enjoy 1 night in every place while traveling a lot.

1

I don't mind taking a shuttle bus and paying an extra $20/30 and cutting down on time. Granada to Copan I was going to fly into San Salvador and then take a bus over to Copan. I'm not stopping at El Tunco, I'm going further down to El Cuco. I think if I head out of town early enough (6/7am) I should be able to travel between these areas by bus within the day. Also a lot of these places are fairly close together (Antigua/Lake Atitlan & Granada/San Juan del Sur/Ometepe). Really, it's just El Cuco and Copan that's kind of out of the way relatively speaking, but I'm hearing a lot of good stuff for Copan.

I might take out the last bit with Rio Dulce/Livingston and spend more time at Copan/elsewhere. I'm flying down in January, flights are booked.

What do you think?

2

Wow. This itinerary looks impossible...

Just some thoughts:
1. I highly, highly doubt that you will able to make it from El Cuco to SJDS in just one day. If it does happen to be possible, you most definitely will only arrive in the evening. So what will be the point of going all the way to SJDS just to stay one night and leave the next day to Ometepe?
2. Going to Ometepe for just a day is a very, very bad idea. Travelling there, in other words taking the ferry, takes quite a bit of time as well. You will arrive in Moyogalpa, the port town, but will not have any time to explore the island. So for that matter, you could just as well allocate your time to a prettier town that's not so difficult to reach
3. If you agree with me on the above, then just going to Nicaragua for Granada is a bit of a hassle as well. Why not just go to Guatemala/Copan now and save Nica for later?
4. For Copan, you said you'd be flying into San Salvador. I personally do not know of any shuttle that can take you to Copan from there. This means you probably have to use public transportation, and the combination of flying AND trying to bus to Copan on the same day is downright impossible because of the distance.

I do understand your wish to see as much as possible, but doing it this way I doubt that you will actually be able to see things...

3

For twelve days, I would stay in Guatemala only. What you have planned is just beyond impossible, to be honest with you. Travel is incredibly slow in Central America. In 2012, my friend and I spent eight days in Nicaragua, with three nights on Ometepe. Three nights alone was not enough for Ometepe. It deserves maybe at least a week on the island alone. I loved Ometepe!

Guatemala is amazing in itself, also. Antigua deserves at least two nights, Lake Atitlan...I always spend at least six nights at Lake Atitlan! The perimeter of Lake Atitlan is 100 miles around it with a dozen Mayan villages, each one offers their own specific handcrafts and atmosphere. Amazing place with incredible views!

Copan, Honduras: I spent ten days in Honduras with six days around Copan alone, which offers not only those amazing Mayan ruins, but a very cool town, horseback riding, zip-lining, all sorts of adventure!

Please do yourself a huge favor and rethink this itinerary, if you can. Even if it costs you some fees for cancellations...you are doing yourself a huge injustice to rush through and I am not sure it is even thinkable...

4

I agree with the advice above. Lots of folks want to cram a lot into the time they have but by trying to see so many places that aren't closely grouped geographically, you would actually be diluting your time to explore and enjoy and spending way more time sitting on buses and shuttles than most of us would tolerate. Almost sounds like that's your priority and what you want to do most.

12 nights is plenty for a nice trip but I'd choose just 3 (or maybe 4) locations at most and drop Nicaragua altogether this trip. If it was my trip I'd either stay in Guatemala or maybe just that with time in Copán. ¡Buena suerte!

5

Really appreciate the tips everyone, I don't know what to expect so this is all very helpful

Alright, I guess I'll have to make some sacrifices then; I didn't consider it would take more than a day to travel the large distances by bus. In terms of activities, I don't plan to do too much outside of hiking, wandering (on a scooter perhaps), or just sitting at a beach - I can skip the zip lining/horseback riding/walking tours/etc. It's also worth noting I am doing this alone.

I feel like I would enjoy seeing more variety of places on this trip than getting too immersed into one place. If I really enjoy a place enough, I will definitely plan another trip to spend more time at this awesome new place. The problem is, I don't know which of these places I will love, granted it sounds like all of these places are pretty awesome in their own merits.

Anyway, would you guys say this is more reasonable:

Wednesday (landing in GC @1300) – home => GC => Antigua
Thursday – Lake Atitlan
Friday – Lake Atitlan
Saturday – Antigua
Sunday - Antigua => Copan
Monday - Copan

Now here I am considering getting creative. From Copan, I take the bus(es) back to GC and fly down to Managua (round trip back to GC). Then from Managua, I take a bus down to San Juan Del Sur.

Tuesday - Copan => San Juan Del Sur
Wednesday – San Juan Del Sur
Thursday – Ometepe
Friday – Ometepe
Saturday – Granada
Sunday - Granada
Monday (flight out of GC @1730) - Granada => GC => home

Obvious downside is that flying is $150 for that round trip. Alternatively, I can listen to you all and scrap Nicaragua altogether :( and just head up to Flores/Tikal or just spend more time between Copan/Rio Dulce/Livingston.

6

Dude, your looking at traveling 4 countries in 12 days, 3 days per country.......say it out loud.

San Juan de Sur is a pit, it sucks. Granada is way overrated. Ometepe is killer but you'll want/need 3-4 nights at least, IMO.
Can you fly to San Salvador from Managua? There is a shuttle between El Tunco and Leon but takes 12 hours or more, easy.

Copan is awesome, probably my favorite town in all of Central America.
I've been to every place on your list, I've done the travel time. If all you want to do is sit on shuttle/buses for 12 days go for it because that's all you'll do.

I recommend:
2 Nights - Antigua
5 N - Lake Atittlan - It's a big place, many many towns.
3 N - Copan
1 N - Antigua

7

So you're saying 3 nights Copan then go back to Antigua? At that point I would just time it so I catch my flight back in GC.

So couple follow-up questions between Lake Atitlan and Copan. What do I spend doing for 5 night? Since it's 100 miles round, I guess I will need to look for accommodation in a couple different areas around the lake and plan a couple day trips. Is there particular part(s) of the lake I should stop by? I was thinking of renting a scooter in Antigua then riding it out to the lake and then using the scooter to explore around. Is that dangerous/ridiculous? I'm game for spending the $40/day for the scooter, think it's totally worth it. Is there a place to enjoy the water somewhere between Antigua/Lake Atitlan, i.e., sit at the beach?

As for Copan, I figured Copan was just ruins. What would I do for 3 full nights? Or perhaps I have the wrong idea and it is a fairly lively town?

8

The Tuesday you have yourself leaving Copan to Guate City and flying to Managua, it is a five hour bus ride from Copan to GUA. Then you would have to be able to catch a flight. From Managua to San Juan del Sur is a long drive. I know they quote you two and a half/three hour drive, but in reality it was closer to four hours. We saw a really, really bad accident on the highway enroute to SJDS and then there were horses, cows, whatnot, you name it on the road...

You would have to probably give up something to make this one even work.

Have you considered visiting Chichicastenango, or Quetzaltenango? There is so much to see in Guatemala.

I would do one country at a time or do Guatemala and throw in Copan.

By the way, Nicaragua is too good to rush through also.

9

It takes 2 nights to = 1 day to explore and enjoy; 3 nights = 2 days. La Antigua is colonial ruins, volcano hikes, markets, and neighboring villages. Lake Atitlán is fantastic views, a ring of villages, each with its own Maya customs and dress and market days, and fantastic hiking and kayaking. Copán is the ruins plus wonderful museums, hot springs, caving, and a beautiful exotic bird park. Tikal has the awesome Maya site plus incredible jungle with great wildlife potential and there are add'l Maya sites nearby plus nature parks and the lake with its villages. You could have 11 days packed full or 4 or 5 days packed full plus 6 or 7 days sitting on your backside in buses, shuttles, and planes, bus stations, and airports. I'd go for twice as many wonderful days if it was my trip. Maybe check out my photo link for inspiration...

10

I always stay at a couple of different spots on the lake. Everybody has their own favorite villages, I like Panajachel for accessibility, eating, drinking and shopping. Jaibalito has my favorite hotel. San Marcos has a cool vibe, San Pedro has the best hiking to offer, Santiago has another one of my favorite hotels. San Juan is very small, but offers co-ops which help the community as do many other villages.

By the way, we didn't care too much for San Juan del Sur either.

Copan is amazing! The town and the ruins.

11

Hermosajoe and Hopefulist are right. You don't want to spend your vacation sitting on buses watching the scenery pass by. Not when you could be out there hiking and enjoying it!

12

Whoa, great tips. Now I feel like I won't have enough time for Guatemala.

Ok here is my revised itinerary:

Wednesday – Antigua (pick-up scooter)
Thursday – Antigua
Friday – Antigua => Lake Atitlan
Saturday – Lake Atitlan
Sunday – Lake Atitlan
Monday – Lake Atitlan => (return scooter assuming I can get one in the first place) Copan
Tuesday – Copan
Wednesday – Copan
Thursday – Granada => Copan
Friday – Flores/Tikal
Saturday – Copan => Flores/Tikal
Sunday – Flores/Tikal
Monday – Back to GC

What do you guys think? Will Lake Atitlan satisfy my beach crave or can a nice beach get squeezed in there somewhere?

13

So you're saying 3 nights Copan then go back to Antigua? At that point I would just time it so I catch my flight back in GC.

The shuttles go from Antigua to Copan, 5-6 hours. Not sure they'll drop you off at the airport.

Your funny, it's CA, nothing goes as planned. Anything can and probably will go wrong, always be conservative in planning.
Anytime you travel it's half a day at least, even if it's close on a map. The traffic in Guatemala City is absolutely horrible.

Not sure if you can get or even want a scooter in Antigua, it's all cobble stone, incredibly bumpy. You ain't going to the Lake on a scooter.

I thought you wanted to hike?

You don't want any transport at the Lake, start in Panajachel and figure out where you want to go, everything is by boat or walking. Maybe a bike.

Copan is an awesome town, has ruins, bird sanctuary, horse riding, beer drinking etc.

Rio Dulce is awesome, need 3-4 days once you arrive, 1 day in and 1 day out.
Can fly to Tikal from GC, you'll need 2-3 nights,

I'd get out of the airport and get a shuttle to Antigua and wing it from there, you might not make it past the Lake.
Save Nica for your next trip!

What airline will fly you RT from GC to Managua for $150us bucks???????

14

I know there's a bunch of volcanoes all around Lake Atitlan/Antigua, so I was planning on hiking a few of them. In my mind, I thought I can scooter to/from volcanoes and between Lake Atitlan/Antigua. It sounds like I'll have to do a lot of winging. Should I book rooms or can I arrive there and look for a place?

15

Forget Nicaragua for now.

Not to confuse you even more, but we took a four hour Hedman bus from Copan to San Pedro Sula and from there flew out to Roatan. Stayed at the Bananarama Beach Resort. Amazing beach and amazing reef right off shore! Stayed there for three nights and flew back to San Pedro Sula.

If you are really digging a beach scene... maybe you could fly from San Pedro Sula back to GUA.

Just a thought.

Honduras was amazing. I loved the highlands, guess I am more of a mountain girl than an island girl. Weather was perfect, could not have asked for anything better. The people of Honduras are exceedingly friendly, honest and kind, the food was better than we had expected it to be. Salva Vida is a great beer, coffee is of course awesome!

Yat B’alam in Copan Ruinas; would definitely stay there again. Copan Ruinas is very nice for walking anywhere and everywhere, always felt safe, never any hassle from anybody at any time. Only thing you have to fear is maybe a sprained ankle from the cobbled streets and the dangerous sidewalks on the steep streets which you think have steps connected to them, but they have sheer drops instead. That was the only danger I could see.

Momo’s; best food in Copan Ruinas, my opinion anyway. Carnitas draws more of a crowd, but the food wasn’t near as good there and prices were just about double. I guess you pay for the presentation…servers carrying food and drinks stacked high on there heads…

Hedman Alsa; can’t stop talking about how great they were! Very professionally ran, very organized, helpful staff. Awesome, comfortable Mercedes Benz busses. Need I say more?

The guys who run the Canopy Tour outside Copan Ruinas. Very sweet, patient, mild-mannered young men who have a certain expertise in photography.

Bananarama; although I wouldn’t stay there again, simply because of the cruise ship attractions, is a very pretty resort with cute little cabañas and just happens to be on the nicest beach on the island. Very friendly, considerate staff.

Lake Atitlan....so many options as in lodging. What is your budget and what are you looking for?

16

I would book your first night in Antigua, just so you know you have a nice place to crash.

What's your basic lodging and requirement, private room and bath or dorm room with 6 people, maybe something in between?

After your first night wing it, lodging is all over, Antigua, the Lake and Copan.

17

I was planning on staying at hostels (hostelworld/agoda) or booking something on Airbnb but sounds like I might get caught up somewhere with the unreliable transportation and end up losing money on a reservation. I could keep a list handy somewhere and jump around to those maybs.

18

My budget is about $30/night. I am thinking of hostels or cheap privates/Airbnb. I saw a bunch of places on there, so I'm guessing lodging is abundant.

19

Forget what I said about Roatan and just focus on Antigua, Lake Atitlan and Copan. Forget the scooter.
Take a shuttle to the lake, hike to your hearts content and take the boats around the lake, you will never be bored, trust me.

Take a shuttle back to Antigua and use a reliable shuttle to Copan (I used Adrenalina). Rainbow Travels is another good one.

And relax!!!!

20

I will be staying at Taanah Guest House, in Antigua, on Air bnB in January. $30 a night. Casa Cristina would fit in your range also. (Antigua)

I stayed at Hotel Utz Jay in Panajachel twice. Around $30 a night. Very nice.

21

San Pedro Sula didn't sound like a bad idea. Should I even bother with Rio Dulce/Livingston? It sounds like Lake Atitlan and Copan will keep me pretty busy.

In terms of the boat rides, is this reliable: http://growyourowncure.org/lake-atitlan-boat-schedule-price-and-times/

I can research each of those places the boats go to and see what I like the best.

22

Walk out the airport and turn right, grab a shuttle to Antigua for $10 bucks, easy. About an hour or so.
Reserve a hostel, look at google maps and the town square, get something close.
I also liked the Utz-Jay, nice place in Panajachel. Mario's Rooms is cheaper.

23

Your plan sounds so much better! I like Casa Cristina in Antigua, Mario's Rooms in Panajachel (if you decide to stay there), Sak'cari in San Pedro, and the Tikal Inn in the park at Tikal. In Copán Ruinas, La Posada de Bellsey is a good budget place but we really loved Comedor Mary y Hotel our last stay there.

24

Your last itinerary is 100 times better than your first one......

25

Awesome, appreciate all the tips. I will have to check out the places you've all mentioned and see what I come up with.

26

You only have 12 days. If you choose Guatemala you give up on beaches but there is lots to see and lots of hiking possibilities. As you seem to want to climb volcanoes look at Acatenango overnight (Antigua).

Forget the scooter. Buses are cheap. Shuttles are available as well.

Make a list of budget hotels. Go down the list when you are there. You will also stumble on hotels that were not on your list. And often cheap hotels don't have an online presence.

I would start with Lake Atitlan for 3 days. Take a boat to Santiago (and don't miss Maximon). Take a boat to San Pedro and also visit San Juan. Take a boat to Santa Cruz and hike from Santa Cruz to Jaibalito and (with a guide) on to San Marcos. From Panajachel take a pick-up truck to Santa Catarina Palopo (or walk). Go to the nature reserve in Pana (hanging bridges, waterfalls, ziplining). Go to the Solola market on Tuesday or Friday (a short bus ride from Pana).

Then two days Antigua or three days if you are climbing Acatenango.

A shuttle to Lanquin and a day (or two) for Semuc Champey (scenic stepped pools, swimming, tubing, caves...).

A shuttle to Flores and stay overnight at Tikal (the hammocks are great). If you have time visit Yaxha as well.

Overnight bus back to GC (or fly).

Rio Dulce is nice for the scenic boat ride to Livingston and a few nights in a jungle hostel like El Hotelito Perdido. Lots of people like it there but it was not my favorite area.

Copan is nice for a day or two: ruins, scarlet macaws (but you can see lots of them at the ruins), hot springs.

Nicaragua would be great for 12 days as well. Granada for a day and active volcano Masaya (you will see lava) and Laguna de Apoyo for swimming and kayaking. Ometepe Island for the two volcanoes (both tough climbs), waterfall, nature reserve with nice beach and wildlife, natural spring pool, kayaking... Leon is a great colonial city with amazing volcanoes (Cerro Negro has great views, active crater and you can board or run down and Telica has a very impressive crater and you can stand right on the edge) and great beaches like Las Penitas and Jiquilillo.

27

So I'm mostly settled with the first part of my trip:

5 nights in Antigua/Lake Atitlan
2 nights in Copan

For the remaining 5 nights, I'm debating between Rio Dulce, Lanquin, and Tikal. I think I can do 2 of the 3 within 5 nights since they are kind of in the same path although Tikal seems most out of the way - I was considering doing Tikal in the future with a trip to Belize, but not sure when I would get to see Copan/Rio/etc. if I skip them this time. But the internet seems most interested in Tikal BUT I do have a preference for water, so the other options seem better...but really is it worth it?

They all seem pretty nice so indecision ensues.

28

I'd leave Lanquín off the list - it will take a full day of travel to get there and a full day away to have just 1 day at the site - 2 of your precious days spent sitting on shuttles and/or buses. I wouldn't make the trip to Copán unless you're planning to spend more than 2 nights. For the number of nights you have, Antigua, Lake Atitlán, Copán, and Tikal sounds like a lot to me, but you could fit them in. Or trade Copán (or Tikal) for either Rio Dulce/Livingston or Lanquín and just stick with Guatemala this trip. Naming 5 places for your number of nights is just way too much transitioning compared to time actually on the ground imho.

No one can tell you what will be 'worth it' to you. I don't really care for Rio Dulce/Livingston and have never made the trip to Lanquín in about 20 visits to Guatemala - connecting with people, cultural color, and Maya history are more interesting to me than looking at a beautiful water feature but my bar is set really high for views because I live in the Columbia River Gorge within an hour of dozens of gorgeous waterfalls and see the river and snow capped mountains from my house. I'll make it to Semuc Champey eventually but only when I feel like spending a week or so in the area for further exploration.

Tikal has the advantage of flights and night buses that the other options don't. If you feel sure about Tikal connected to Belize, then I'd leave it off when you decide on your 4 stops (and Antigua/Atitlán is 2 stops). ¡Buena suerte!

29

If you have your heart set on Copan I would not go to Lanquin. It is just too far. Rio Dulce makes the most sense. You have only 5 days left. A day to get to Rio Dulce. And then you have three days for the boat trip to Livingston and a few nights in a hostel on the river like Hotelito Perdido or Finca Tatin for kayaking and hiking. I don't see how you would add Tikal as well.

If you pick Tikal instead of Copan you can choose Lanquin or Rio Dulce. Although the boat ride to Livingston is scenic I didn't find Rio Dulce or Livingston all that attractive. El Hotelito Perdido was nice but two days was more than enough.
Lanquin is a rural Q'eqchi' Maya village. It is set in a lush valley. There are coffee and cardamom farms on the lower slopes of the hills that surround the town. We enjoy the scenery in and around the village, the caves, the river and of course Semuc Champey. But we also enjoy village life. The buses coming and going, the church, the small market and near Semuc the kids selling chocolate. One year I hope to visit Lanquin during the fair in August.

Maybe you could start with Tikal and somehow fit in Rio Dulce, Copan, Antigua and Lake Atitlan. Day 1 fly to Flores or overnight bus. Day 2: Tikal. Day 3-5: Rio Dulce. Day 6-7: Copan. Day 8-9: Antigua. Day 10-12: Lake Atitlan. Or skip Rio Dulce but I don't know if you can get from Flores to Copan in a day.

Or start with Tikal and Flores day 1-3 and then 4 days to get to Lanquin, enjoy Semuc Champey and get to Antigua. 5 days left for Antigua and the lake.

Or start with Tikal and Flores, then Rio Dulce and then Antigua and the lake.

30

From Antigua, I'd highly recommend hiking Acatenango volcano. You hike and camp on the mountain and visit the crater/summit at sunrise. When I hiked up, the adjacent volcano, Fuego erupted beautiful fire red lava all night. The sounds and sights were magnificent! Highlight of the trip and I've been on the go for 7+ months.

http://adventureofalifetime.co.uk/acatenango-volcano-hike-fuego/

31

This topic has been automatically locked due to inactivity. Email community@lonelyplanet.com if you would like to add to this topic and we'll unlock it for you.

32