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Well, if you ever find a ridiculously cheap ticket staring you in the face but can only finagle a couple days off work, it is definitely worth taking a trip to Nicaragua. The ticket was just $355 over the US Thanksgiving holiday...couldn't resist that.

Photos here: http://www.nancychuang.com/travel/nicaragua/index.html

Took the official airport taxi to the minibus station, based on reports that the ones across the road are less safe these days...the official is a whopping $18. Pulled into Leon around noonish. The bus station is definitely within walking distance of the center, but as it doesn't appear on my map (Moon guidebook from 2003), I didn't want to risk confusion while carrying my stuff. Taxi to the center is 15 cords.

Stayed in Hotel America, highly recommended. Not social like the hostels, but a friendly family-run hotel for only $10 private ensuite. Just 2 blocks from the Catedral.

Leon has beautiful old architecture, generally friendly people (although my Spanish has deteriorated so much I couldn't have any real conversations), and fun festivities every single day. I actually felt like I grew more familiar with Leon than I would on a longer trip, when I'd move around the country more. Great people-watching.

There was always some type of parade, and the boys doing La Gigantona y el Enano Cabeza are out in full force now. Saturday night it appeared like they were competing...7 or 8 groups in Central Park, all trying to out-drum each other. In addition to the Gigantonas on Saturday, there were scavenger hunts and little rides for kids, dancing, people with their faces painted. Then...a bunch of hippies firedancing in front of the cathedral. Funnily enough, there was a service going on at the same time as all this chaos.

Food and drink: someone here recommended La Cabana across from Iglesia La Merced and I agree, quite tasty. Taquetzal is a popular place with both locals and gringos. If you're looking to splash out on breakfast, Hotel La Perla had the best pancakes I've had in a long time. With frest fruit and juice it was about $5. Fritanga stands behind the cathedral...eh, not really that tasty. Maybe it's better in other towns but the food seems to be cooked way too far in advance.

Also hiked with Quetzaltrekkers to Volcan Telica. Tough hike for me, as I'm not used to carrying my own stuff (including seven liters of water). Well worth it though to see the smoking crater up close. Great org, the guides are enthusiastic young people (most have just recently graduated college) and they encourage you to visit the street kids education center they support if you have time - Association Las Tias.

Anyway...sorry, that was a bit long for such a short trip! Just want to encourage those who usually think like I do--that if I don't have time to do it properly it might not be worth it--that it is definitely worth it.


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Nice pictures!

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Thanks for the post! I had a similar experience with the not-so-fresh fritangas behind the cathedral. However, I got lucky one day and caught 'em freshly fried/grilled, and they were mighty tasty.

Great pics! When I was in Leon, there was someone renting out a toy car to kiddies in the central park for a few cords per spin. Did you use a graduated filter for the toy car pic?

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I'm heading down to Nica for two weeks in March! I found a $300 round trip from Houston and I couldn't resist that either. What what you say you spent on average per day?

And great pictures as usual. I'm still too apprehensive about taking pictures of locals when I travel.

Edited by: MrRed

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lootsuit: no, just a yellow filter for B/W. As for fritangas, there were two ladies behind the cathedral, one nicer than the other. I bought a papas rellenos off the nice one but quite late, maybe 10pm, and she barely touched it to the grill before giving it to me. Got cerdo, maduro and fried queso off the less-friendly one quite early a different day, around 5, but it wasn't much better. Well, I won't lie, I still ate the sinfully greasy cheese, but recognized that that type of cheese doesn't need any oil to fry crisp.

MrRed: Thanks! Actually for the celebrations it's more comfortable, everyone's taking pics. For pics of food vendors, I always asked them if it was OK.

I was on holiday, not super scrimping so I probably spent $25/day? I'm sure you can spend less.

From what I'd been reading here, I think $10 for a private room was a good deal. Private rooms in the hostels are often double that, while dorms w/ shared baths are $8 or so...not much value unless you prefer that scene. The Quetzaltrekkers hike was $40 for an overnight trip, including all food, water, equipment, transport. That takes care of lunch the 2nd day too, so hiking is a money-saver! There's a nice art museum in town that only costs 12 cords admission but was free on Sunday. Internet is 8-10 cords per hour.

Food CAN be cheap but again, I didn't scrimp on this trip, probably averaged $5 per meal including a couple drinks (but it's heavy stuff, I didn't eat 3 meals per day). You can eat at the fritanga for about 50-60 cords. A snack like quesillo or raspado should be 10 cords. Nica Libres should cost about 25-35 cords, beers about 18-20. One of the 2 bakeries near Hotel America (blanked on the name, not the one right on the corner) was mad popular. Empanadas cost 5-8 cords there and the place smelled sooo good.


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Hey what great photos! It was great reading your report, many reminders in there for me of my trip to Leon this past summer... I think I recommended La Cabana, I know I ate there and liked it alot. Also did the Telica hike with Quetzaltrekkers--- really great organization and enjoyed everything about the hike. I really loved the art museum-- very peaceful and some beautiful pieces in there. Yes--- that bakery near Hotel America had some of the yummiest pastries I've had.

Was surprised to hear about Hotel America...I met up with someone who was staying there and had recommended it also. So when I did a quick overnight stop in Leon arriving late one night from Matagalpa before leaving for Las Penitas the next day-- and took a room there-- I was less than impressed and if it had not been so late or so tired I would have moved on that night.

Anyway it seems you had a fun trip and thanks for the report.

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Hey naugastyle,

Did you make any reservations in advance, or just wing it? I'm hoping to visit Nicaragua later this month, and I'm not used to making reservations-

(Nice picts, by the way)

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Excellent post, Will be in Leon next month, and thanks for the insight.

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Thanks for posting. We had thought we might go to Nicaragua in February, but the flight was so much cheaper to Panama - so it's Panama this year. We'll definitely go to Nicaragua sometime though.

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trapperchica: looked back and it WAS you that recommended La Cabana! For the amount of food it was almost on par with price as the fritangas (I over-ordered at the fritanga by a large amount) and tasted much better. The open wall with view of La Merced seemed like a great idea until that truck that sprays--insecticide, possibly?-- came through the wrong way on a one-way street and sprayed directly onto the diners inside. Very weird.

What didn't you like about Hotel America? The room was basic, but I thought the staff was sweet and the common area, if you wanted to use it (of course it was never busy, like the hostels) was quite pleasant. They even sold bottled water for less than the closest shop. Shower was cold but I LOVED the huge showerhead and it was so hot in Leon I wanted cold showers anyway. From asking around it didn't seem like private rooms come for less than $10 there, but I might be wrong.

smaragd: I did not make reservations for anything. Walked in to the hotel, walked into Quetzaltrekkers. After being there a few days I noticed there's actually a lot of tourists in Leon, but I guess there must be enough hotels/agencies to support them.


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