Well, if you ever find a ridiculously cheap ticket staring you in the face but can only finagle a couple days off work, it is definitely worth taking a trip to Nicaragua. The ticket was just $355 over the US Thanksgiving holiday...couldn't resist that.
Photos here: http://www.nancychuang.com/travel/nicaragua/index.html
Took the official airport taxi to the minibus station, based on reports that the ones across the road are less safe these days...the official is a whopping $18. Pulled into Leon around noonish. The bus station is definitely within walking distance of the center, but as it doesn't appear on my map (Moon guidebook from 2003), I didn't want to risk confusion while carrying my stuff. Taxi to the center is 15 cords.
Stayed in Hotel America, highly recommended. Not social like the hostels, but a friendly family-run hotel for only $10 private ensuite. Just 2 blocks from the Catedral.
Leon has beautiful old architecture, generally friendly people (although my Spanish has deteriorated so much I couldn't have any real conversations), and fun festivities every single day. I actually felt like I grew more familiar with Leon than I would on a longer trip, when I'd move around the country more. Great people-watching.
There was always some type of parade, and the boys doing La Gigantona y el Enano Cabeza are out in full force now. Saturday night it appeared like they were competing...7 or 8 groups in Central Park, all trying to out-drum each other. In addition to the Gigantonas on Saturday, there were scavenger hunts and little rides for kids, dancing, people with their faces painted. Then...a bunch of hippies firedancing in front of the cathedral. Funnily enough, there was a service going on at the same time as all this chaos.
Food and drink: someone here recommended La Cabana across from Iglesia La Merced and I agree, quite tasty. Taquetzal is a popular place with both locals and gringos. If you're looking to splash out on breakfast, Hotel La Perla had the best pancakes I've had in a long time. With frest fruit and juice it was about $5. Fritanga stands behind the cathedral...eh, not really that tasty. Maybe it's better in other towns but the food seems to be cooked way too far in advance.
Also hiked with Quetzaltrekkers to Volcan Telica. Tough hike for me, as I'm not used to carrying my own stuff (including seven liters of water). Well worth it though to see the smoking crater up close. Great org, the guides are enthusiastic young people (most have just recently graduated college) and they encourage you to visit the street kids education center they support if you have time - Association Las Tias.
Anyway...sorry, that was a bit long for such a short trip! Just want to encourage those who usually think like I do--that if I don't have time to do it properly it might not be worth it--that it is definitely worth it.

