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Same deal as my earlier post, the only way to safely do a TR from my phone is to type it up as a draft in Gmail and then post in chunks as replies to myself.

Pictues and a more personal accounting are here http://imaybehappy.com/2014/04/20/isla-de-ometepe/

The ferry from San Carlos leaves at 2pm on Tuesday and Friday. First class fare, which is all foreigners can buy, is 161 cordobas. The ticket office is only open on the day of departure, from 10am until 1:50pm. Boarding started about 45 minutes prior to departure.

The first class cabin is just rows of padded benches with a tv and an airconditioner. Despite what the LP guide says, I saw nowhere to hang my hammock on the deck , which is what I had been planning. There were deck chairs for rent for 30 cordobas, but no one to rent them when I boarded, so I took a seat in the cabin. It was hot, as the windows were closed and the air-conditioning not yet on. After 15 minutes, I excused myself around the people seated next to me and went back out on the deck. It's small, maybe 30' by 50' but I'm bad spatially, so don't take that as gospel. It's just not a big boat.

What I saw was that the locals had just grabbed the canvas deck chairs and claimed the good spots along the railing already. There was an attendant now, but no deck chairs left. He told me there'd be more in a minute. I got stuck in the 2nd row. The people by the railing had a place to put there feet up at least.

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The ferry ride is long. You make two stops along the way, the first a few hours in, the 2nd around 10 pm. The sunset was nice. I didn't go down to the cafeteria, I had stocked up on snacks, water, and alcohol, but the food looked to be typically Nicargaguan. Beans, meat, plantains. Note, you are not supposed to drink alcohol on board; I had repackaged my drink into a water bottle, so it was unnoticed.

On our 2nd stop, at 10pm, there was a a floating bar attached to the pier, and people were out drinking, and there was music. If I was younger, and had a more open itinerary, I would've hopped off, had a drink and waited around for the Friday ferry.

I ended up sleeping on the deck, along with everyone else, by that time. The deck chair is only comfortable for so long. I had a thin foam mat, some people had cardboard, some had nothing. It was warm enough, no sheet was required.

We arrived at 1am, and I quickly found a taxi to my hotel, 7 miles away in Santa Cruz. El Porvenir, $11.50/night. I had originally planned on staying at Hotel Central in Altagracia, only 2km from port, but when I emailed to reserve, they emailed back that the email was for both hotels, which did I want. I looked at El Porvenir, and chose that. They said it would be around $30-35 for a taxi, but I got one for $20 with no negotation. That 1am taxi ride was one of those travel moments I won't forget. People sitting out on plastic lawn furniture by the side of the road, drinking and taking, passing near the lake and seeing the white lines of waves breaking, swerving around cattle.

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El Porvenir had a security guard stay up to let me in and show me to my room. The next morning, I rented one of their bikes($7) and rode first just passed Balgue, till I found a nice beachfront bar where I had a beer and watched children swim. On my ride back I turned down a side road that advertised a bar 150 meters away, and had another beer there by the water, then to Altagracia, which reaffirmed my deciscion to not stay there. Then I rode back to Playa Santa Domingo, which was packed with Semana Santa crowds. There is a string of restaurants along the Playa, then a break, and then another clutch. The same could be said of Balgue. I never quite figured out what Santa Cruz was beside a hotel of the same name at the intersection.

I rode along the beach, the sand was hard packed and easy to ride on. People played baseball and soccer and swam. Cabelleros drove their horsea and cattle down to the lake to water. I ate lunch and Comedor Jacqueline, which was expensive and not that great.

I got back to El Porvenir around 5pm and watched the sunset. They have food service and two outdoor dining areas with hammocks, and great views of the sun setting next to Vulcan Concepcion. The food was fine, and not terribly priced, entrees $5-8. Beer for $1.25. It's up a dirt road, about 15-20 minutes walk from where the road splits for Balgue, Playa Santa Domingo and Merida. At the intersection is the bus stop for Moyogalpa and a tienda selling beer, sodas, water and snacks. You could walk to the south end of Santa Domingo in maybe 30-40 minutes, downhill.

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was supposed to leave for Moyogalpa the next day, but decided to stay an extra day as I like El Porvenir. The grounds were beautiful, it was tranquil, though the winds kick up at night.

The next day I hike up to the Mirador on Vulcan Maderas, which has a trail starting right on El Porvenir property. A farmer shortly after I started along the way stopped me and asked me where I was going, and I told him the Mirador, and he said that was fine, but it wasn't safe to ascend all the way up Maderas without a guide. He also noticed I wasn't carrying water, which I had forgotten in my room, so I headed back to retrieve it.

I rode to Merida, which wasn't much, and chose not to ride beyond to San Ramon as I didn't trust the bike. It was a hard 6km rutted, rocky dirt road to Merida, and the same beyond to San Ramon. The chain started popping off on the ride back.

I got the chain sorted out, and rode to Santa Domingo for lunch. I ate at a cheaper place, I think Comedor Malinche. I stopped at the tienda on the way back and bought beer and snacks for dinner.

The next day was Good Friday. I had asked at the hotel, when the first bus was, and was told 9am. So I headed down around 8:30 and stopped at the tienda to confirm the bust stop was where I thought it was. The woman behind the counter looked at me and said there was no bus today, I'd have to walk or take a taxi. I asked her if the bus ran tomorrow and she said yes. I needed to be in Granada on Saturday, as I'd booked a hotel. If I waited till tomorrow, it'd be an all day journey, arriving early evening. A taxi was too expensive. So I walked 17 miles to Moyogalpa.

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I'm a backpacker and 17 miles is not a bad day for me in the Sierra Nevada. It was hot, and I got caught behind a religious procession shortly before the Moyogalpa turn off before Altagracia. It's a lighlty trafficked two lane road, and I stuck out my thumb a few times at first, but no one stopped, Families on the way to family stuff, full vehicles, I understood. I just saw a nice bit of the island very slowly.

It took 5.5 hours, and I arrive around 2:30pm I bought more water in San Jose del Sur. I stopped at the first hotel I had seen listed in the LP guide. Hotel Escuela Teosintal. It was $20 for a private bath, or
$12 without. After walking 17 miles, I took the private bath. The room was grungy, but I figured it was a coop, for a good cause, so I dealt with it.

I had lunch at one of the few places open and busy along the main drag, Bahia Bar. The food and service were good and well-priced. I walked around Moyogalpa, finding the ferry terminal for tomorrow and the Parque Central, where I sat for a bit. It was nice to have a selection of restaurants and practicalities to choose from, as compated to El Porvenir, and it had a working town charm. It was full of tourists as well.

Since I ate so late in the day, I decided to drink my dinner, and went over to Hotel Central around the corner. It was busy, full of tourists. French music from the 1940s played. It had charm, but it wouldn
have been out of place in any tourist town in the world. There was nothing Nicaraguan about it. After a drink, feeling guilty about this, I went back down to the ferry terminal, where I had seen a unfinished building that someone had turned into a bar by hanging lights, plugging in a cooler for beer and setting up a grill. It was nice, very industrial and ad-hoc, and I couldn't help but imagine some trendy person seeing this and setting one up in Chelsea in NYC

The next morning I caught the 9am ferry to San Jorge. It left about 9:10 and took 80 minutes. How I got to Granada from there is another TR.

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Keep it coming...so, what did you think of Ometepe?


Adventure Travel to Colombia, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala, Mexico, Thailand, Burma, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, China, South Africa, Morocco, Turkey, EU, USA National Parks, enjoying culture, cuisine, motorcycling, scuba diving, surfing, sailing, rafting, hiking, fishing, camping, nature, wildlife. Get a Guidebook, and get lost!
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Good stuff!...nice report.

That road around the island is hot....we did it by bicycle and that was tiring enough.Also climbing the volcanoes.Ometepe is a good place for a workout.....

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jrmacd, So you are in Nica right now correct? What is the seismic activity like?

BTW, thanks so much for your trip reports. Super helpful first hand experience!

Safe travels!

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I was in San Carlos a week or so after the first two significant quakes. The restaurant I was in had a news program on about Cuban seismologists arriving to help assess the danger of further quakes, and the other patrons were watching intently. A couple days later, on Ometepe, I read a BBC article saying that the first lady of Nicaragua telling people Managua was on red alert for a big quake and people should start sleeping outside for safety until further notice. The article went on to say that Nicaraguan seismologists said the recent quakes had 'reactivated' the fault that was responsible for the 1971 quake that levelled the city and killed 10,000 people. At the bottom of the article, US seismologists were quoted as being skeptical as to the fault being ' reactivated' saying only that any fault activity can affect other nearby faults .

I was a bit freaked out. But decided to go on with my trip. My feeling, completely uninformed, was that the first lady's announcement was a product of genuine concern for people, as so much of the housing in this country is substandard and would certainly collapse in a major quake, and part covering their behinds, so if something did happen, the govt could say that they warned people, they were not to blame if peopel died. But that is just my general opinion of govt everywhere showing itself.

I can also now tell you what I thought of Jinotega. I didn't think much of it. I loved Matagalpa. Vibrant, working city, surrounded by mountains, free hikes right through rural villages right on it's doorstep(written guides bought from Centro Girasol for 30 cordobas each) Selva Negra just a 45 minute bus ride away(though I didn't have time for that). My hotel El Castillo, was $15/night for my single, with a terrace overlooking the city with some plastic furniture where I could sit and eat street food for dinner.

Jinotega is smaller and grittier. The poverty was more evident. Men sleeping/passed out drunk on the sidewalk in some areas, etc. It has it's charms, but most of it seems to lie outside the city. As does Matagalpa's it was just easier to access as an independent, not wanting to pay for a tour, traveller from Matagalpa. There aren't a lot of places to eat beyond comedors., but the comedors were fine. The street food was a step below the stuff in Matagalpa and Leon. Same stuff, just not as well prepared. The central park is beautiful, with a really charming playground where it is fun to sit and watch the families and kids while having a couple 50 cent slices of adequate pizza from the food cart adjacent. The market was actually quite nice, open and pleasant to walk through. I didn't feel unsafe walking around at night. Grocery stores and other practicalities are available.

The one hike I did was up to Cerro la Cruz, which was nice, it's a concrete staircase most of the way. I was a bit worried about safety, being an urban trail, but a local assured me it was fine, and I saw many people doing it, a lot of woman doing it as a Stairmaster, one guy running it with ankle weights. There were two security guards, one part way up, the other near the top But if I was choosing a place to base myself up here, I'd pick Matagalpa, or Esteli, where I am now. But then I can't speak to the sights around Jinotega, as I didn't take them in because of time constraints. I stayed at hotel Bosawas, which was $9/night for my stuffy, smelled like toilet bowl cleaner, single facing into the lobby, where the the was on until late. It was fine for $9 and two nights, but if you have a bit more to spend, I'd recommend looking at other options.

I think Jinotega was just a little bit too small for me. I like my cities mid-sized. I didn't need more than my 1.75 days there, and if I hadn't had a brief cases of nerves about going on Cerro la Cruz alone on my first day, I would've been fine with walking around the city in the morning, hiking up in the afternoon, and leaving the next day.

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