Enter custom title (optional)
This topic is locked
Last reply was
2.2k

Greetings from Costa Rica,

In February I'm looking to take a relatively short (10 day) trip to Nicaragua. I'm considering two potential options:

A) Taking the boat from El Rama down the river to Bluefields, spending a couple days seeing some of the surrounding areas (Pearl Lagoon, Pearl Keys, etc), then heading onward to the Corn Islands (by boat) and eventually flying back to Managua
B) Explore the area around San Carlos in the south, exploring the Archipielago de Solentiname, El Castillo, the Indio Maiz Reserve and possibly even Greytown/San Juan del Norte, time and budget permitting

I've been to Nicaragua before, so more than anything, I'm looking for perspectives (and advice) from people that have been to and explored one or both of these areas, not only in terms of being able to compare/contrast the potential trips (which feels more remote? less traveled?) but also in terms of helping to plan them (hostels, boat info, etc). Any constructive advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Report
1

Please enlighten us to the results of your research as this trip is not for the faint hearted.

Report
2

why would this trip not be for the faint of heart? there are lots of tourists that take these trips.

Both of which are decently traveled. Neither are top tourist destinations in the country, but neither are particularly remote in that you are one of the few to do it. If you are looking for more remote, and something that very very few people do, i would recommend heading north and try out the Rio Coco along the Honduras border. Waspam, Asang, and over to the Puerto Cabezas area. Now thats a trip not for the faint of heart.

But as for your 2 suggestions, the Bluefields / Pearl Lagoon trip has more people, but not necessarily more tourists, its just got bigger cities and more people traveling back and forth. Most tourists choose to fly. You only have 10 days, so the Corn Islands trip is going to be a bit more hurried. If you are going by boat, It will be 2 partial days of travel each way all the way out to corn islands and back from Managua, and since most everywhere along the coast is only reachable by boat, you will only be able to fit 2 or maybe 3 coast destinations in most likely, depending on the travel and the timing of everything.
If you do spend some time out there, i recommend checking out Kukra Hill, Monkey Point, Set Net.
Very few tourists make it farther out than the bluefields/pearl lagoon/corn islands triangle. And partially for good reason, since there isnt much of anything out there except small isolated villages and a muddy coast. Thats not to say its not worth going, but it depends on what you are looking to do on your trip.

The San Carlos area is more frequented by tourists, but pretty much in a straight line. San Carlos, down to El Castillo. Most dont go much further, some go to Greytown, and then back up the river. Lots of hanging out on a boat. Lots of jungle scenery after jungle scenery after more jungle scenery. There is more history and good blog scenery to take pictures of and post for your friends. Once you hit the Indio-Maiz...you will feel remote for sure. I have yet to do the solentiname islands, so i cant comment first hand on them. But once again, with only 10 days, a lot of boat travel, and the limited departures could eat up a lot of your time. I doubt you would be able to make it to greytown, check out the indio maiz AND do solentiname islands, unless you flew to/from san carlos, and got the timing down right and hurried through everything.

There are more options for hostels and basically tourism in general in the san carlos/rio san juan area. You can stay budget dorm room style for cheap, or camp. Or there are expensive eco-whatever buzz word resorts too. its not difficult tofind a place to stay once you are there.

The carribean coast has much less of that, and outside the pearl lagoon/bluefields area there is little to nothing set up for tourists. Though if you are a nice guy and into getting to know the locals, getting a place to sleep and a meal shouldnt be too difficult. you might need to stay in bluefields, and just do day trips to some of the nearby areas.

as for comparison....it goes without saying the carribean trip will have different feel than san carlos / solentiname islands. The people are different, the language is different, the food is different, etc. The carribean part is like a completely different country.

Report
3

I disagree. I am not sure what you mean about lots of tourists but I would like to hear about the travel logistics involved for a 10 day trip..

Report
4

Can only help with option B. We took the ferry from Altagracia on Ometepe. Left at 4 pm, slept on the upper deck in a beach chair. Could also be inside but cold (AC). Paid C$160 per person + C$30 for chair. Although some people asked they refused to sell cheaper tickets (lower deck) to tourists. Arrived in San Carlos at 6 am. Took boat to Los Guatuzos (Rio Papaturro). Arrived at the Centro Ecologico after 4 hours. Cheapest room was C$240 per person. Went kayaking and did boat trips, one at night (amazing !) and saw lots of wildlife. Make sure to check out the Caiman comedor in the village. Armando is an excellent guide and they have rooms as well (http://www.cabañascaimanlosguatuzos.com/). You can email the Centro Ecologico (info@losguatuzos.com) and they reply promptly with current boat schedule etc... In November 2012 boats left at 9 am on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday. Coming back Sunday, Monday, Tuesday and Thursday at 8 am.
After a few days we took the boat back to San Carlos. There is now a fast boat (only 1 or 2 a day) to El Castillo, it takes only 1,5 hours, C$140. Nice village with fort, very peaceful when we were there. Wanted to visit biological reserve Indio Maiz but could find nobody to join me. It is not far but you need to go by boat and with a guide : $60 for 2 people (USD). Slept at Casa de Huespedes in El Castillo, double room with bath for C$400. Hotel Universal looked okay too (C$120 for a single room, C$240 for a double with shared bath).

Report
5

It is off the beaten path for most typical visitors to Nicaragua, but not really unusual or that off the path.

For both areas, read this guys blog, he lives in the Bluefields and has also explored the RSJ area well, managing to make a loop from El Castillo to Bluefields in a very time consuming and have no schedule way, which is pretty much the key, flexibility, as the transport options are or can be more or less, a few times a week, if a boat is going and has fuel, or the swells/oceans/weather permits...

http://rightsideguide.com/

Also, the FAQ has trip reports, or used to, recently for the RSJ area. Both these areas I have yet to get explore and I am sure whichever you one you decide, you will have no regrets...enjoy.

Report
6

I greatly appreciate all the incredible advice from everyone that has replied. It looks like we will, in fact, be heading to the Caribbean side, starting in Juigalpa, heading to El Rama, taking the boat to Bluefields, spending several days exploring the area (Kukra Hill, Pearl Lagoon, Pearl Cayes, Set Net) and then taking a Friday morning cargo boat to the Corn Islands. I'll have to save the Solentiname/San Carlos trip for later...better to always leave a reason to come back. If it would be of value, I'd be happy to write a short trip report when I come back. Thanks again!

Report
7

Just keep in mind, the boat schedules are very 'fluid". Some of the boats did not run last week, Why? Just because.

Report
8

i thought the boat didnt run last week because of an engine problem, and they had to wait for a part to get shipped in. (no pun intended)

Report
9

The engine problem is on the Wednesday boat , Rio Escondido, called the Express. Some of the cargo boats did not run, no $$ on the Island means no one buying anything on the Main. All of the boats, except the Express are cargo vessels, they haul passengers but that is not their main income, no cargo means no trip no matter how many Gringos tell them they are supposed to be going because they read it on the internet.

Report
Pro tip
Lonely Planet
trusted partner