Hello. It's been a while since I first logged on to explore options. We're a month out from our trip, and I wanted to post my travel plans with the hope that the Experienced Ones would provide helpful feedback and tips. I've read a ton of postings, and have enjoyed reading the tips from hopefulist and NYC and Bob, as well as the contrasting/enhancing opinions of others.
One of my goals is to do the long bus rides at the start of our trip, then reduce travel time toward the end. Thus we're going from GC-> Flores/Tikal -> Lago Peten Itza -> Lago Atitlan -> Antigua -> GC International Airport from 12/8 - 12/22. Knowing that I (the mom) am traveling with my 6 and 8 year old kids (good travelers, accustomed to long airplane and car rides), and that we're on a pretty tight budget, here's our itinerary and questions:
12/08 Arrive in GC. Go by taxi to the Linea Dorada offices to reserve tickets for the overnightg bus trip to Flores.
Q: If we have 5+ hours to spend, what should we do (I know about the relief map, taking the Amarillo Express, Central Market)
Q: Is there an late afternoon first class bus (we arrive around 2 pm)? It would be good if we could arrive really early in Flores to maximize our time in Tikal. By the by, how does one pronounce "Tikal?" I could pronounce it in American, bluff it in French and Italian, but would hate to mispronounce it to Guatemalans.
12/09 Arrive in Flores in am. Arrange tour to Tikal for day. We need accomodation for the night of 12/09. Anyone know of family-friendly places in Flores? Should we reserve this in advance?
12/10 Take boat shuttle across Lago Peten Itza to the Eco-Escuela. We'll stay there for 5 days.
12/14 or /15 Leave Eco Escuela, bound for San Pedro de Lago Atitlan (via Panajachel) on 12/17. I've read the postings for stops at Lanquin, and stays at El Retiro. I understand we'd have to get from Flores to Santa Elena, then catch a shuttle to Coban? then on to Lanquin?
Q: Is there a "family friendly" route from Lago Peten Itza to Lago Atitlan with a night's layover? If so, what are your suggetions?
Q: Is there another Flores-Lago Atitlan route that minimizes travel time?
Q: Should we just head straight for Lago Atitlan and spend a day or two exploring that region?
12/17 Arrive in Panajachel then get boat shuttle to San Pedro de Lago Atitlan for the Coopertiva San Pedro.
12/21 in afternoon take boat to Panajachel then shuttle from Panajachel to Antigua
Q: Is it easy to arrange shuttle from this direction? Who would be best suited to arrange this for us? Most postings have directions from Antigua -> Lago Atitlan.
Q: Are there recommended family-friendly lodgings in Antigua?
Q: Are there good playgrounds, fun things for kids to do?
12/22 Antigua -> GC airport. I'm sure I need to arrange the shuttle on 12/21 for the airport.
Q: How much time should I allow given this is a Saturday right before Christmas? What should I expect to pay?
Are there big things I've missed for this itinerary? Be honest with your replies, but be nice, please! We're trying to minimize luggage, and are planning to bring a suitcase full of school supplies then fill that case up with Christmas gifts. Any ideas along our route for unique gifts would be greatly appreciated! And if any of you regulars want to meet up for a beer, cocktail or a chat, I'd love to connect internet personalities with live faces. Just pm me.
I consider myself an experienced traveler, and yet I can't believe how excited and nervous I am about this trip. Despite my trips all over the US and to Canada, Mexico, Australia and Italy, I finally feel I am going to a country outside of my culture, with a language I can somewhat grasp if folks speak slowly but with two young travel partners...what an adventure! I'd giggle now, but then Bob might slam me...
Let me just sy how wise and wonderful a mother you are to expose your kids to the wonders of other worlds and cultures. They shall KWAYS be grateful. Well Done!!!
I say "tea-call" and no one laughs. Sounds like a wonderful trip. The long bus rides to Petén and back will be taxing, especially right after your flight down, but it's good to get them out of the way and you're staying put in big chunks at other times. Can't wait to hear about your school experience at Eco-Escuela. I know you'll have a wonderful experience at the Cooperativa school. Please be sure to tell Lorenzo and Luis and the others I said hi. I promised them I would try to drum up business for them using this forum and I think it's working; I realize I'm not the only poster with positive opinions of them, but I hadn't read much about them before I planned my time there.
Maybe in Antigua you could stay somewhere like Ashanti's Place where there are kids for your kids to play with and parents who would have ideas of other places to play. In Flores, La Casona De La Isla is nice and has a nice pool, though not a budget option; we paid $52/double in August.
When leaving San Pedro La Laguna you can also take a bus straight from there to the intersection near Antigua (Chimaltenango, I think) and switch to an Antigua bus there. We headed out that way but to Guatemala City at 4 am - Lorenzo at the school helped me figure out the times and route.
For gifts, Pana is a great place to shop. It would be fun for the kids to pick out weavings or hackysacks (they make beautiful, colorful Christmas tree ornaments) for gifts.
Thanks for the update. Already looking forward to your trip report!
I think you are taking too many long bus rides for a two week trip. I don't even like one 8 hour bus ride without any children! But then you plan to do the reverse and go to Atitlan? You asked for my honest opinion and honestly, without a air segment to or from Flores, I would give this a thumbs down. The trip is a good idea, but the method of travel with two young kids is over the top in my opinion.
Hi HemlockGirl,
Good for you for taking your kids with you!
Now here's my two cents:
As the above posters stated, Flores is a loooong way from GC. You might be able to catch an overnight bus, but be prepared for a long journey.
Tikal can get really, really hot. So if your overnight bus arrives in the AM, you might be stuck visiting the ruins during the heat of the day. Something to consider. Maybe give yourself another day in the Flores section if you can.
Flores to Lanquin: Getting from Santa Elena to Flores is really easy - they are even walking distance. Just a 30 second tuk-tuk ride away. From Coban to Lanquin, there are several buses during the day - it is about a 1.5-2 hour ride. Contact El Retiro -- they may have a shuttle to/from Flores by now because of demand.
El Retiro & the waterfalls: Some on this message board will pooh-pooh it, saying it's not all that. Personaly, I think your kids will love it - adventurous and fun.
* Pana to Antigua shuttles: very easy to book from San Pedro or Pana. There are several travel agencies you can book through.
Have a great trip!
Cheers,
Kay
After they paved the road over to San Andres and San Jose, regular minivan service started from Santa Elena and regular boats stopped running, but if you mean to hire a boat across the lake, it is still doable.
The advantage of an overnight bus is that the eight hours pass quickly IF you sleep through much of it. It would also depend on your kids and their ability to sleep on one.
Last December, the average maximum temperature in Flores was 82 °F / 27 °C and only two days were way up there in the low 90's F. Admittedly, it was cool last year, but the previous year had no days in the low 90's.
If you had two solid weeks for travel in addition to the school, Semuc might be worth it, depending on your interests. Keep in mind that there are two routes from Flores to Coban, forking. The route suggested above would send you a total of 6 hours to Coban and then you would head another two hours back toward Sayaxche the other way to get to Lanquin. The much closer way would take you through Raxruja, not Chisec, though I think that there is a bit less of people traveling along that one. The disadvantage would be that coming via Raxruja there are no shuttles directly to Lanquin, so you would have to get out at the Lanquin turnoff and get a bus or shuttle ride onward. My guess is that a race between you and NYC_Girl_115, with you going via Raxruja and her going all the way to Coban and waiting for a shuttle there, you would arrive several hours ahead of her.
Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
Greggo, I hear your concerns and normally I would agree with you about the amount of time transitioning from one place to another related to the total time in country. These kids have flown quite a bit--our trip to the Pacific NW in August had them twiddling thumbs in airports for 6+ hour intervals, sitting in a car as we drove from Portland Or to Seattle WA and then the next day to Vancouver BC. Two days later we reversed the process (total trip: 9 days; crazy, but family obligations dictated the destinations). With plenty of games, books and snack food, they did great and our "post-trip survey" resulted in their loving the trip, not having wanted to pass up any bit. As I've planned this trip WITH them, they are aware of travel times. And for them, the philosophy is "We've got nothing to lose, and everything to gain" (truly, you can ask them). My son is majorly into ancient history, so Tikal is a must; going 8-10 hrs away from GC means returning 8-10 hrs; at least with this plan, the return travel is broken into shorter segments.
It's clear I need to get a more detailed map to check out the route options. We're going to the Guatemalan Embassy in DC tomorrow (after I vote)--they may be able to hook us up with a map and other recommendations.
Mayaphile, with kids I've learned it's a good idea to maximize the variety of transportation--they'll love the boat trip. I'll check again with Eco Escuela about the boat schedule. I'd hate to be left hanging at the dock, particularly when we'll have 5 days to explore the lake. They'd probably love the idea of the chicken bus if that's what we need to take to Lanquin, and enjoy the experience if for a short time (the adventure psyche).
I am still left with a question--is there an option other than Lanquin for an overnight to break up the trip from Flores to San Pedro de Lago Atitlan?
I am so appreciative of your advice and experience--keep it coming.
FYI the Linea Dorada terminal is located at 16 calle and 10 Avenida in zone 1 (tel: 2232-5506) According to their web page, they have a deluxe service bus that leaves at 9PM for Flores (US$55 R/T). The other one is the Economy type that leaves at 10PM for $32 R/T) I would take the deluxe type for safety reasons because they supposedly don't make any stops along the route. By the time you leave the airport and get done buying your tickets (3PM)you could go check out the relief map (zone 2)and probably the zoo, which is close to the airport and the zona viva. Make sure you bring your jackets. It's been getting chilly in GC in the evenings and mornings. I would spend some time eating at any of the restaurants (Casa Chapina) in the zona viva, and also killing some time during the rush hour before heading back to the bus terminal. You need to be there at least half an hour before departure. I would say that in Antigua the www.earthlodgeguatemala.com would be the ideal place to stay because of the kids. I would also try to spend some time at www.fincatatin.centroamerica.com in the lake Izabal area or www.hotelitoperdido.com because of the hot springs water falls or any other place along the rio dulce on your way back from Flores(www.mayaparadise.com). Good luck.
If you come back from Flores via Sayaxche and Coban it is all daytime minivans and buses and the scenery is impressive once you get into Alta Verapaz and beyond. If you want to go the best way to Lanquin and not spend the night, get an a minivan to Sayaxche. If there is a line up for the ferry or even if not, pay 2 Q each for a ride across the riverr and immediately ask where to find a minivan to Raxruja. If it is going beyond to Pajal, that is even better, because you can get to the junction for Lanquin. Coban would make a good stopover. Hotel Central is decent, right downtown and doesn't cost much. It is also just 2-3 blocks to the Monja Blanca bus station to Guate.
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