3 weeks Guatemala itinerary advices

If you want to hike up Pacaya you would book a tour in Antigua, not at Lake Atitlan. You won't see lava and you can't go to the top any more but Pacaya is interesting if you have not been close to an active volcano before. The other volcano near Antigua is Acatenango. I love the overnight trek as you can see active volcano Fuego erupt. But it is a tough climb. So if you choose Pacaya you need 2 days in Antigua.

You have only one day for Nebaj. You need more time if you want to go there. First you have to get there. And then you need two days there for hiking and exploring. I like Nebaj but if you want to go there you have to drop something else. You could go from Lake Atitlan to Xela. Xela deserves at least two full days. Volcano climbs (Santa Maria, Tajumulco), hike to crater lake Chicabal, hot springs, markets... Then from Xela to Nebaj. Two days there (we hiked to Acul and Cocop). And then a long day to get to Lanquin.

One day for Semuc Champey is enough but as it is hard to get to you might consider a second day there for relaxing, swimming, tubing... From Lanquin it is 8 hours by shuttle to Flores.

Tikal is amazing and so is Yaxha. I have not done the El Mirador trek. Someone on this forum did it recently and called the first day brutal but seemed to have enjoyed it. Only you can decide whether a long jungle trek to ruins appeals to you more than the highlands. I wouldn't call El Mirador a must as most people would not attempt a long trek like that. But it depends on your interests. Tikal is a must and Yaxha is great too.

About Lake Atitlan: the walk to Jaibalito is nice and you can walk on to San Marcos (that part might be best with a guide). Make sure to take the boat to Santiago and visit Maximon. I would choose either Indian Nose or volcano San Pedro. The former is easier and has more viewpoints. If you are in the area on a Tuesday or Friday you may want to go to the Solola market, a short bus ride from Panajachel.

With 22 (?) days and if you skip El Mirador: 2 days Antigua, 3 days Lake Atitlan, 3 days Xela, 3 days Nebaj, 3 days Lanquin, 4 days Tikal and Yaxha, 3 days Rio Dulce/Livingston and back to GC.

Thank you for your reply and advices!

I'm going to plan Xela as well and the volcano Santa Maria!

I will drop the El Mirador trip. I've found an option to do a 3 day trek from Todos Santos to Nebaj. I'm going to try to arrange it and also a 3 day trip (2 nights/3days) through Yaxha and Tikal. Do you have any experiences on these hiking trails or any advice which organization should I ask?

Nebaj seems quite remote, do you have any advice where to stay/what to do with which organization in that region?
How can I deal with the locals with only basic Spanish?

I'm just thinking would it be a good idea to move to Cobán from here? Visiting Candelaria Caves for example?
and then continue the trip to Lanquin.

Thanks again!

Volcano Santa Maria is a day trip. Insist on leaving as early as possible as clouds roll in quickly. If it is clear at the top the view of Xela and other volcanoes is amazing and so is seeing active volcano Santiaguito erupt. If you go to Xela, you might as well go to the scenic hot springs as well. Some tour operators even offer Santa Maria in the morning followed by the hot springs (Fuentes Georginas) in the afternoon. That makes for a very long day but in the hot springs you can of course just relax.

The trek Todos Santos-Nebaj is something I would like to do but haven't done yet. Although logistically it would make more sense to go from Todos Santos to Nebaj the tours I know of go from Nebaj to Todos Santos. In that case go back to Nebaj after Todos Santos. Stay at least a day. Then go to Lanquin.
These are the tour operators I know of:

http://www.nebaj.com/guiasixiles.html#multiple (they offer day hikes as well)

http://www.quetzaltrekkers.com/xela/treks/nebaj-todos-santos/

We went hiking in Nebaj. To Acul and to Cocop. We went on our own but you can go with a guide (see link above). You can also take a minibus to Chajul and Cotzal.

Basic Spanish is fine. My Spanish is very basic. Also take a phrase book or a translation app.

You can go from Nebaj to Coban and then Lanquin and Semuc Champey. I don't think you will have time for the Candelaria caves (we went to Raxhuja from Lanquin via Pajal and Sebol) or the Bombil Pek cave in Chisec. We didn't find the Candelaria Caves that impressive (but there are three entrances and one of the other entrances might have been better). You can visit the caves in Lanquin/Semuc instead. There are the Lanquin caves (bat caves) in Lanquin. Go at dusk, take a flashlight, explore the cave for a bit (it is huge), then sit at the entrance in the cave and wait for the thousands of bats to fly out. There are also caves near Semuc Champey (K'an Ba Caves). You wade and swim while holding a candle and climb, jump, slide through the cave.

I have heard of three day trips to Yaxha, Nakum and Tikal but I can't recommend a tour operator. I have heard good things about Cafe Yaxha. Maybe they can help you out:

http://cafeyaxha.com/go/tours.html

http://www.the-mayan-adventure.com/zotz_tikal.html (click on tour offers for more tours)

If you use San Juan for anything be aware that they have almost a monopoly in the Flores area and they can be dishonest but often they will get you from A to B. Just make sure you have an idea of what it should cost and ask for a receipt that clearly states what you paid for. I have heard good things about (but can't vouch for) Crasborn Travel in Flores and you could also try Hostel Los Amigos.

I think you may also have to skip Rio Dulce if you want to do everything listed above. With 22 days: 2 days Antigua, 3-4 days Lake Atitlan, 2-3 days Xela, 6 days Nebaj (including the trek and getting to Nebaj), 3 days Lanquin, 4 days Tikal and Yaxha (including the trek) and back to GC (overnight bus or fly).

The El Mirador Trek is interesting because of the remoteness - it is quite an adventure but definitely not for everyone.

It looks like you have only one day scheduled in Antigua. I would try to be flexible on this. It is a lovely, safe town with a lot to see/do and makes a great base for further explorations. Many people schedule only a day and then wish they had budgeted more time.

Have a great trip - sounds like a good one!

Thanks for both of you for the answers!

I'm trying to fix the Todos Santos - Nebaj hike and the one in Tikal/Yaxha but it seems to be a slow process changeing e-mails is not so easy with tour operators :)
All the other activities will depend on these.

I'm trying to add another day in Antigua and Nebaj. Perhaps I will come back to you with some questions if I could finalize my itinerary.

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