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I only stayed in Puerto Viejo overnight. I felt bad vibes from the moment I arrived in PV that were reinforced when I walked around the town in the afternoon and later on in the evening. Although I am normally not a paranoid person, I felt that I was being watched in preparation for a rip-off. In Nicaragua, I had been warned that rip-offs are common in PV and one ex-resident of CR told me that it is only a matter of time before you will get ripped-off. Over diner, I decided that I would leave the next morning and head across the border to Bocas del Toro in Panama. Unforntunately, I had a bad experience that evening when someone broke into my room while I was asleep. Luckily they did not get my passport or credit card. See my post here. All I will say is that PV is not my kinda place, although I met other tourists who had been there and they loved it. I also met numerous people who raved about the coast/beaches south of PV. They are probably a better option than PV.

After I had reported the theft to the police, I caught the bus south to the border (about an hour or so). When you arrive at the bus parking area it is not clear where you go next. There is a fairly high dirt/grass raised area on one side of the parking lot and you walk to the top of it and continue to the left for a short way until you see a small office on the right. This is where you complete the paper work to exit CR. Next you continue along the bridge, be careful here as it is old and some of the boards are broken, loose or missing... it's a decent fall into the river below. Once on the other side, there are two offices on the left. Walk past the first window and enter the door of the last office. In here, depending on your nationality, you must buy a tourist card ($5 from memory) and then return to the first window and have it stamped along with your passport. With the entry formalities completed, walk down the stairs to the right and there will be minibuses and taxis waiting to take you to either Changuinola or Almirante where you can catch a boat to Bocas del Toro. On the day I was there, the next boat from Changuinola was full and therefore I caught the minibus to Almirante for the boat from there. This was a little unfortunate as I was looking forward to the boat trip from Changuinola that is supposed to be a pretty scenic journey. The boat fare from Almirante was about $3 and took about 20-30 minutes (from memory).

Pt 11 - Bocas del Toro to follow

Edited by: LP to add tag

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looking forward to Pt 11 as we are going to Bocas del Toro in March. Need all the info that we can get. We are planning staying in P.V. on the way to Panama - but sure hope we have better luck than you did!

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Smudge, I realise that my experience in PV was not what you would call typical and I hope that your time there is trouble free. As I mentioned in my post, do check out beach areas surrounding PV, there are suposed to be great.

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Okay, I am going to step in here in defense of the OP. As some of you know, I am a #1 fan of Puerto Viejo and encourage people to visit and often rave about how wonderful it is. My huband is from here and we visit often. That being said, I just came back from spending 4 months there and I can quarantee you the OP is correct. My husband knows everyone here and there are many many locals who completely support themselves by ripping off tourists. They even call it their "job". There is an attitude here that tourists can afford to replace the items stolen from them and the locals want to believe the have no other means of supporting themselves so hey why not. And yes, tourists are sometimes watched to see if they seem naive and have things of value.

Personally I am not as fond of PV as I once was for this reason, it seems every day more and more Americans, Canandians, and Europeans are coming in, building bigger and bigger businesses and homes that only they can afford. Prices are rising and the people who suffer are the local people. I acknowledge that this is the Costa Rican governments fault for allowing this to happen, however its still dissapointing to see the changes here that I dont think are for the better of anyone but the people with money. Petty crime and the selling of marijuana and cocaine is on the rise. Marijuana has always been around here and seems pretty harmless but petty crime and cocaine, it's kinda sad.

That being said, it's still very beautiful here. Come before it isnt anymore. Just be smart and be careful and realize that yes, you might be a victim of a petty crime. Violent crime is still rare, thank god.

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MissMarley, Thank you for your thoughts and observations on the issue of petty crime in PV. I was looking forward to my time in PV but once I had been ripped off, it left a sour taste in my mouth and it reinforced my resolve that I had to get out of there. My post was not intended to warn people to keep away from PV, more of a warning to be aware that petty crime is a problem there and to be careful.

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Wow, censorship? What I say?

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I wish you describe this bad vibe? What was a bad vibe, the people? The attitude, the palm trees?

Where is ElkyTheDogPerson, still there or back in Cambpdia?

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Its called crime. Many people experience it in PV. Coke fiends looking for easy money or people who are simply bitter because they are not getting a slice of the tourist pie. Many have moved away from PV because of the bad scene. If you went there once and had a great time bully on you. Other people have had not nice experiences. I myself had a great time but I could feel the vibes in the air, there are times in Bocas when I have felt the same vibe. Bad people come down from Limon just to hunt tourists. It is the same sitch' as many places in this world. When I have a bad vibe about someplace I don't question it.

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I wonder if the pre disposition of the stories you heard from the Nicaraguans polluted your judgement. I agree there is a more obvious drug element there, and the dudes are working the corner, but they really are known to everyone and comes with territory. No harm from that crew, but at night, PV has been a potluck when walking solo at night on a desolate stretch, indeed it requires some vigilance on a tourist part, no doubt.

I am sorry you didnt dig it, I love the area, mainly for its good cuisine and lack of tourist, not to mention the stunning beaches. But, it is not for everyone, and does get a bad rap from most Ticos as well. Prejudice and racism is alive and well in CR too, and the folks in Limon are not known for their good reputations.

Its a lethal mix over on that coast, with a substantial amount of poverty, uncheck crime at times, a huge port with dock owrkers and truck drivers, sailors and ship hands getting blitzed on booze and cheap coke. Its the crackheads that ruin it all, they will randomly make there way to Cahuita and PV, and ruin it for everyone.

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What you exerienced in PV is par for the course nowadays unfortunately. It's all a result of excesive tourism. I've seen this sort of thing over the years (I'm 56) more times than I can count. The Caribean side is a bit "rougher" than the rest of the country, but the attitiude toward tourists is similar. The blacks tend to be more "in our face" with their scams as opposed to the white Ticos, but both are more than happy to cheat you out of as much $ as possible. And yes, it's a thing of honor to them. It's the old "locals versus tourists" game. - It's a result of overdoing their tourist industry. In CR now it's the #1 industry. - And thats always BAD! Ive been a resident of Hawaii for 30yrs and I can assure you that tourism always goes this way. Its sad, many "old-timers" have what CR was like in the "good old days" it's not like that anymore. Blame excesive tourism.

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