Starting research and feeling overwhelmed!

Car rental: I prefer to use local transport instead of driving if at all possible both in terms of cost and also stress (I would rather watch the scenery out of the bus window!). It is overall possible to get around Costa Rica or am I going to be limited to most of the major touristy areas?

It all depends where you are going. The key area that it makes worth the money is the NW, around Liberia/Tenerio/Rincon/Arenal/Cano Negro.

San Jose: We are gong to spend one day doing a quick look around the city. Does anyone know of a company that does a good walking tour especially with a food component? I found one company called Barrio Birds.

I don't... but downtown SJ is a tad gritty and congested, SJO is actually 30 minutes away in Alajuela and a lot more pleasant to spend a night IMO. Unless you are catching a early bus, especially to longer distances like Drake Bay or Tortuguero.

Drakes Bay and Caribbean coast: I have heard a lot of fabulous things about the Osa Peninsula but in looking at accommodations and access it appears to be rather expensive. I am wondering if it would be better to go to either Tortugero or the Cahuita National Park. There is also the issue of weather as this side of Costa Rica is supposed to be quite wet so maybe I should skip it entirely?

End of Nov things start to taper off to dry season and early December things get dry and by the time you leave the roads around Liberia are dusty and dry as a bone, until March. As for DB, yes this area is not cheap when compared to others, but, it is the most bio diverse park on the planet says National Geographic, and its is raw jungle, and wildlife and nature in your face like no other place I have been. Tortuguero should also be on top of your list as very unique and fertile park with much more marine life, and birds too. But if you can't swing Corcovado, then this plan B. You have great beaches south in Cahuita and Pt Viejo area, especially Manzanillo-Ganduca.

Monteverde Cloud Forest: It seems like this has become rather overrun by tourists. Am I better to go to one of the other cloud forests? I have read a bit about Los Santos?

Its still rainy and cool up there, and its a cloud forest, so you don't see much with fog, mist and rain. Its 4 hours from anywhere and a tad touristy too. Skip it.

Montezuma: This sounds like a really cool town and area. Has anyone been there recently that could give me some feedback?

It is a very bohemian town, hippyesque sort of, expats from the 60's. It is hard to reach, either via ferry from Puntarenas, or, water taxi from Playa Hermosa, south of Jaco (best avoided). A more cali/french surfer scene is around ben in Mal Pais. If you do go anywhere down here, make it in Dec as late as possible, they get a lot of rain, like the Osa in Nov.

Homestays: This seems to be a fun lodging alternative. Has anyone had any experiences with this?

Yes I agree, but I have not done this. Airbnb Room share could be a good option too. Hostels are cheap though, and you meet like minded travelers, and get tips and opinions.

Thanks for your feedback. I love this form and all of the help everyone provides!

Your Welcome

Get the MOON Handbook it will help you define what you want from this big/little country filled with nature in all directions. Here are some links too...

http://nicoyapeninsula.com/nicoyasouth.php

http://www.tortuguerovillage.com

http://www.puertoviejosatellite.com

Raft the Rio Pacuare, it is through indigenous indians lands, gorgeous rainforest, waterfalls, and a darn fun time to boot!

By contrast, I always take a car. Local transport is a very cheap option if you go as the locals do but this is rarely a practical solution for short stay tourists as it it slow, hot, dusty and stops everywhere on route and is rarely without stress!. Tourist transport such as shuttles costs a whole lot more and need arranging and you'll have very little freedom. Long distance buses that just get you from A-B are fine. However, in a car you are free!
A day in San Jose is OK, but you won't miss much if you decide not to do this, and as #1 says its worth remembering that the city is a fair slog from the airport and hotels are not cheap.
Osa can be real hard work for the beginner- head to the Carib coast.
Monteverde IS very touristy and somewhat overrated, alternatively if you have your own car you can drive through some great cloud forests (such as San Lorenzo on the way up to La Fortuna).
Montezuma is cool!....again its an adventure to get to and much more fun in your own car.
I far as I am aware the Homestay thing hasn't really taken off in CR. Don't bother...but do research accom in places like Montezuma as you will moving into peak season by mid December.

Have a great trip! (you will!)

Osa can be real hard work for the beginner- head to the Carib coast.

Why do you think this? If you rent a car you will potentially need one capable of crossing rivers, however apart from that, no particular challenge I would have thought.

Well there are-

Especially Drake Bay, as all the lodges are connected via foot paths, or boats, not roads. Bets to leave car in Sierrpe and take boats to/from DB.. the big river outside town in rains season can be too deep to cross depending on rains.

It all depends, but since you need 3 nights minimum, a car is going to sit 3 days somewhere...if you hike the Loop, it will sit in Pt Jimenez, if you head to Carate, 2 hours south of PJ and 7 rivers to cross, it will sit there 3 nights...

...then don't take my word for it....the LP says " do not underestimate the Osa- its the real deal". You are clearly a grizzled and wise traveller and no the Osa is not exceptionally challenging of course (unless you wander off into the jungle) but for an "overwhelmed" first timer with so many CR options, it may not be the best one IMO. Perhaps you could be more helpful by advising how they can get the best out of the Osa during their stay?

Fair points: I guess my thinking was that having a car would make access to the area (or various parts of the peninsula) more convenient. I recognise that it will end up being parked for a chunk of the overall time in the peninsula itself.

So, to respond to the request for advice, one suggestion, if you are going to be in/around Puerto Jiménez/Playa Colorado, is to go horse-riding with Carlos at Rancho Tropical. We rode from here along the beach, then inland and up the hills to a lookout point from which the views were amazing. A morning's ride, which was a highlight of our last visit.

A second suggestion is to use the car to visit several areas in peninsula, perhaps initially the Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce, accessible from Ruta 245, then the south, leaving it either at Puerto Jiménez or further along the coast road (we left the car at Rancho Tropical), and also the north/isthmus area, leaving it somewhere around Puerto Cortés. Doing this by public transport would be a lot less convenient.

We traveled by bus. Last time to the Osa and the Caribbean coast. We had 3+ weeks as well.

For the Osa most people choose either Drake Bay or the Puerto Jimenez area (but we went to both). It doesn't have to be expensive. In Drake Bay there is cheaper lodging in the village. There is a free beach hiking trail that goes to several great beaches and a jungle river. And the big draw is the boat tour to the Sirena ranger station in Corcovado Park ($90 per person). There are many tours offered but they can indeed be expensive. I like the Puerto Jimenez-Dos Brazos de Rio Tigre-Cabo Matapalo-Carate area better (easier to explore on our own and more wildlife). But accessing Corcovado Park is expensive as well. And although late November things will start to dry up I assume it would still be very muddy. There is the three day trek to the Sirena ranger station (Carate-Sirena-Carate or Los Patos-Sirena-Carate) for which you need permits, reservations, a guide... or guided day hikes. We loved the three day trek and saw lots of wildlife (we paid $500 for two people). But you can also enjoy the rainforest and see wildlife without actually entering the park. We stayed at a cheap jungle hostel in Dos Brazos de Rio Tigre. There are other hotels there as well. Our hostel (Bolita) had great rainforest trails which you can also access for a fee if you are not staying there. You can also go exploring and kayaking in/near Puerto Jimenez. And take a day trip to Cabo Matapalo (lots of wildlife in that area, even on the road).

We also loved the National Park in Cahuita and the beaches south of Puerto Viejo (we stayed in Manzanillo). But November-December could be quite rainy.

As for cloud forest: we didn't go there yet but I have heard good things about San Gerardo de Dota and Los Quetzales NP.

And as you are flying back home from Liberia: we enjoyed Rincon de la Vieja. Rincon has a great trail where you can see fumaroles, bubbling mud pots... and monkeys (Las Pailas trail). There are also nice hikes to beautiful waterfalls. We hiked to La Cangreja. We stayed at El Sol Verde and loved it. It is very close to Curubande and the village has two small restaurants. You can also walk to two rivers and go for a swim. The people at El Sol Verde are friendly and will give you a lift to the park and pick you back up. Lots of people like Hacienda Guachipelin but it is more expensive. Tours can add up but we did the Las Pailas trail and waterfall hike on our own. But ziplining, canyoning, tubing, horseback riding... are all offered. There are also hot springs. We stayed for two days.
You can take a bus from Liberia to Curubande and that is very close to El Sol Verde (walking distance).

Many people fly in/out for the Corcovado portion, as its remote and not easy to reach and time consuming, and a car does not make a lot of sense IMO.

If you are not hiking the Loop basing in Pt Jimenez, head to Drake Bay.

Thank you everyone for the great feedback. I am still struggling a bit to put together my itinerary but once I have a fairly final draft I will post it for more feedback! Since I not want to hike the loop it sounds like I will be best to stay in Pt Jimenez and do some exploring from there. I checked airfare since the bus ride out of San Jose takes the majority of one day and it seems like RT airfare would be around $170-does that sound about right? I also looked at a property called the Lookout Inn Lodge in Carate but was confused as to how to get there from PJ. Their website said you can take a collectivo or taxi?