My comparison of Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker and Placencia, with pros and cons.
I've been traveling around Belize for 18 years.
--Lan Sluder
http://www.belizefirst.com
AMBERGRIS CAYE (often referred to as San Pedro):
* The biggest island in Belize (originally a peninsula jutting
down from the Yucatan) — northern Belize
* Settled by Mestizos from Mexico
* Most popular destination in Belize (for many good reasons)
* Tends to attract a crowd in their 30s and older, mostly couples
* Almost 20,000 people on the island
* # 1 area in Belize for foreign investment and expat living —
second homes, condos, retirement
* Mostly sand streets (though some of the town streets are now
paved with concrete cobblestones), formerly no building over
three stories (though some new developments have four stories)Cool by
• Significant new development taking place in the zone from
town to about 2 miles south of town, and also on North
Ambergris -- some 500 condo units are under construction on North
Ambergris
* By far Belize’s widest selection of restaurants and hotels
* Among the best top-end hotels: Victoria House, Azul Resort,
Seascape and
* Among the best condotels: Villas at Banyan Bay, Grand Colony,
Belizean Shores, The Palms, Xanadu
* Among the best mid-range lodging: Mayan Princess, Corona
del Mar, Banana Beach, The Tides
* Among the best budget lodging: Ruby’s, Sanpedrano, Pedro’s
Backpacker Inn
* Some shops, sizeable groceries, lots of bars and places to
hear live music
* Some excellent restaurants including
Very Expensive: Rojo Lounge, Capricorn, Blue Lotus
Expensive: Blue Water Grill, Rendezvous, Elvi’s
Moderate: Wild Mangos, Caramba, Caliente, El Fogon
* Very nice beaches though like all beaches inside the reef
somewhat narrow and with some goop bottoms and a good deal
of seagrass
* Beaches along most of the Caribbean side (20+ miles)
* Reef just a few hundred yards offshore, closest at the far
north
* Your first decision is to decide where to stay — in town, south
of town or on more remote North Ambergris
* Lots of snorkel tours and day trips to the mainland to visit
ruins
* Good recreational diving locally and excellent diving on day
trips to Turneffe or Lighthouse atolls
* Get there by flights from international (US$60) or municipal
airstrip (US$30) or by water taxi (US$1250)
* Friendly and safe though usual cautions are in order — burglaries
and thefts are fairly common, murders not unknown
* Transportation on the island — bikes, rental golf carts, cabs,
water taxis
* Traffic in town is starting to get really bad
* New bridge over Boca del Rio (carts, bikes and pedestriansdro Cool by
only) is helping open up North Ambergris, but cart path there is
still very rough
* Hotels from US$15 to $500+ a night
* Small condos and vacation rental houses available US$100 to
$500+ a night
* Golf available on nearby Caye Chapel (but expensive —
US$200 a day)
* Tennis available at sports club and at several hotels
* Water — safe to drink from municipal system or RO/wells
* Good fishing — tarpon, bonefish and other
* Little snorkeling from shore (best snorkeling requires a short
boat ride to Hol Chan Marine Reserve including Shark-Ray
Alley)
* About the same amount of rain as Atlanta, Ga
CAYE CAULKER:
* Still a charming, laidback small village atmosphere with a Caribbean resort vibe
* The main part of the island really is just one village of about 1500 people, and on the average day maybe 300 or 400 tourists
* The vibes are laidback, easy-going, calm
* This is Ambergris Caye's little sister -- smaller and a cheaper date
* Moving more upmarket, with several condos under development, but it is still mostly a budget and backpacker island Only three hotels on the island have a pool, for example
* Sand streets, few cars, you get around by shank's mare, bike or maybe a golf cart
* A mix of people on the island, Mestizos, some Creoles, a few gringos
* About 55 hotels and vacation rentals, mostly very small, with a total of around 900 rooms
* Beaches are not the island's strong point -- a little swimming from piers and one or two places south, but the Split is the main area where folks swim
* No municipal water or sewage system -- pipe water in many places smells strongly of sulphur
* Best hotel on the island costs only about US$140 a night
* Iguana Reef Inn and the rebuilt Seaside Cabanas are the most "upscale" choices for Caulker, and both have a pool
* Other good low-moderate choices -- Tree Tops, Trends Beachfront, Shirley's, Anchorage, Jaguar Morning Star, Lazy Iguana B&B, Auxillou Beach Suites, Caye Caulker Condos, De Real Macaw, Barefoot Beach, Maxhapan and others
* Good restaurants at the "top end" include Habaneros, Don Corleone's and good food, too, at Rainbow Grill, Sand Box, Syd’s, Jolly Roger, and others
* Two or three dive shops do dive trips -- snorkeling and diving here are a little cheaper than San Pedro and Placencia the reef is just a few hundred feet out
* For booze and what action there is, hit the Lazy Lizard and I&I
* Rastas occasionally bug you
* No golf or tennis (golf available on Caye Chapel)
* Getting there is easy -- it's a US$750 water taxi ride from Belize City or San Pedro; also, by air on Maya Island or Tropic Air, US$60 from international, US$30 from municipal
PLACENCIA:
* 16-mile long peninsula in southern Belize (Stann Creek District) in the midst of a major cultural shift, from small, somewhat remote beach resort to a real-estate driven, development-oriented area, with some 1,500 new condos and houses either just built, under construction or approved, though here and there you can still find an oasis of quiet and charm
* Access from Belize City via road by rental car (3 1/2 hours, US$55-$90 a day), bus (6 hours, US$9), air (40 minutes, US$75 from international, US$60 from municipal)
* Placencia village is 25 miles from the Southern Highway on a mostly unpaved road, often in terrible condition; optional access is from Independence/Mango Creek on the Hokey Pokey across Placencia Lagoon; contract for paving of the Placencia road has been signed, but paving hasn’t begun yet
* Two villages on peninsula -- Placencia (Creole) and Seine Bight (Garifuna), plus Maya Beach and the northern peninsula
* Before driving, check status of Kendal Bridge on Southern Highway near Maya Centre – currently washed out again
* Peninsula population about 2,500 to 3,000
* Wide choice of hotels from budget hotels in Placencia village to upscale resorts farther north
* Hotels from around US$15 to $400+
* Growing number of condos and vacation rental houses, US$100 to $400+ a night
* Among the best to-end lodging: Inn at Robert's Grove, Turtle Inn
* Among the best mid-range lodging: Maya Beach Hotel, Barnacle Bill’s
* Among the best low-moderate lodging: Tradewinds, Westwind, Coconut Cottages, Seaspray, Manatee Inn
* Some restaurants in Placencia village and elsewhere, though some of the better restaurants are at hotels: in village among the good places to eat are Wendy’s (in new building), De Tatch, French Connection, Tutti Fruitti (amazing gelati), Yoli’s; north of the village Maya Beach Hotel Bistro and Inn at Robert’s Grove
* Transportation on peninsula -- taxis or your rental car (taxis are fairly expensive, especially if going way north -- BZ$40 one-way from Placencia village to Maya Beach)
* 15+ miles of very nice beaches along Caribbean side -- best beaches on mainland but not much different from those on Ambergris Caye
* Day trips to mainland to visit Cockscomb jaguar preserve and Mayflower and to Maya sites near Punta Gorda
* Day snorkel trips -- reef is 15 + miles out, though snorkeling is also available at islands and patch reefs closer in
* Little snorkeling from shore
* Few shops, only small groceries
* No golf; tennis for guests at Robert’s Grove
* Safe and friendly (though usual precautions are in order, especially regarding theft and burglaries)
* Water from municipal system safe to drink
* Good fishing for permit, bonefish, tarpon and other
* Access to small islands offshore for day or overnight visits
* Good to excellent diving on day trips
* Limited nightlife – mostly bars in Placencia village
* Usually more rain than the Northern Cayes (especially during rainy season June - November)
* Sandflies can be irksome
--Lan Sluder
http://wwwbelizefirstcom