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Hello,

First, a quick note:
I posted on here about a year ago, asking some random questions about a planned trip to Jamaica, and got some great info and advice from mikeymike and ackeepod. Well, I've finally booked a trip to Jamaica, but it's looking different enough (and it's been long enough) to make it worthwhile to start another thread.

I am flying into Montego Bay on October 12th, and back out on October 22nd. Hopefully, I won't catch any storms, but then again, I live in Florida, so I'm rolling the dice either way...

I'd like to catch some real local music events (concerts, festivals, soundclashes) while I'm there, preferably more oriented towards oldies, roots, and/or foundation. I'm not really interested in nightclubs, hotel bands, or the newest wave of dancehall. I understand that it's difficult to know what's going on this far in advance, so I'm fine with checking telephone poles and listening to radio announcements while I'm there, and adjusting my travel plans accordingly. On the other hand. I'd hate to end up missing out because I never even visited the right towns.

So, I have a few questions related to that:

  1. What's up with Montego Bay? Guidebooks make it sound like it's all conga lines at the AI, but then it is the second-largest city. Is it worth hanging around there to see what's going on? If I were to pick between spending time there and spending time in Negril, which would yield better results?

  2. Anybody been to the Port Royal seafood festival? Is it worth making travel plans around?

  3. I've read some articles from a couple years ago that the oldies night in Rae Town has been shut down. Is this still true? Where else in Kingston might an old ska-head spend their time? Are there any standing weekly dancehall events which are worthwhile for somebody with zero interest in daggering and other such nonsense?

  4. Does anyone know of any country festivals around the island which might be on in this time period?

FYI, I'm already planning to be in Belmont/Savannah-La-Mar for Peter Tosh's birthday, spend a few days in Accompong/Maggotty, and probably cruise around the southwest coast a bit. I've curtailed previous plans to spend time on the eastern end of the Island, both because of my flight into Mo Bay and because people I had planned to visit in Kingston have now moved to NYC. Nonetheless, I'm still committed to making at least a brief pilgrimage to Kingston, unless I find myself paralyzed on a Western beach for ten days.

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1

You only have ten days and you plan to be in Belmont for Peters Tosh birthday, and go up to Accomphong, cruise around the southwest coast, and maybe go to Port Royal. NOT going to happen, unless you plan to be in a car travelling the whole time, and that won't be to plesant.
If you want to catch some "old style, roots reggae" then your best bet is to stay in Negril. It is also just a short distance from Negril to Belmont. Skip MoBay unless there is something musically that is happening, then you can make the 1.5 hour drive to Mobay to catch it. Also, keep in mind that Accomphong is vary far into the hills, and require at least a day (overnight) to do are see anything up there. Accomodations will be "skimpy" also. Forget Port Royal, it is way to far for your time on the island.
Again the best thing for you is to base yourself in Negril, and be on the look out for reggae shows there and in MoBay. You can also, easily do a day trip to Treasure Beach from Negril, maybe spend a day at Floyd's Pelican Bar (google it) out on the sea, are vist Eggy's Bar on Frenchmen Bay.
How do you plan to get around for those ten days ? Rent your won car, public transport, hire a private driver ?
ONE LOVE !!
Mike

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2

Mikey,

Thanks for the reality check. I see that I do have way too much thrown in there for such a short trip, especially since I plan to use public transport. It's much easier to traverse a country in your mind than it is on the ground!

I'm thinking now of heading straight into the hills upon arrival, and seeing how that goes first. I definitely want to get to Belmont on the 19th, so that gives me about 6 days to play around with. Negril does sound like a good central location, unless I just lose track of time and end up staying inland for a while. I hear you about accommodations up there, though I see that there are some guesthouses with camping around Maggotty, so that seems like a reasonable base for that area.

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If your flight does not arrive before noon, I would not attempt to reach Accomphong on public transport the same day, because you could end up in the dark, and that is not a good place to be up there. Usually, in the very rural areas there are drop off points where people get the taxi are bus, and then you have to walk from there. You should spend the night in MoBay and leave early the next morning.
ONE LOVE !!
Mike

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4

Actually I'd skip Negril and base yourself in Treasure Beach...really just as close to Belmont and Accompong as Negril is, or close enough...and a whole lot nicer, IMO. The beach and cliffs in Negril are very beautiful but the tourist hustle is trying, to me anyhow.

Negril occasionally has good live music but major events are, these days, mainly at Negril Escape: http://negrilescape.com/events.htm - and I don't see any for October, at least not yet. Most other reggae you can see there will be house bands for the various beach bars and hotels covering pop reggae, for the most part.

Seastar Inn on the cliffs has a Saturday night show (with buffet that is actually very good). The reggae is nothing great - see above - but they do have nyabinghi drummers that play between the two sets that are, IMO, pretty damn good.

Take a look at Apple Valley Park in Maggoty for a place to stay.

In October you have zero need to book anything in advance, so it's very reasonable to figure out your first night - put that on the immigration form that asks where you are staying - and play it by ear from there.

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Thanks, Mikey and ohliz, for the great advice-

Mikey, that is exactly what I have been on the fence about, whether to stay in Mo Bay that first night or head out straightaway. As it turns out, my flight arrives at 11 AM, so I'm figuring that I'd have enough time to get out to Maggotty or Accompong before dark. On the other hand, if it's still safer to just spend the night in Mo Bay, then that's fine, too. I'll be super curious to see what the city and beaches are like when I get off the plane, anyway.

Ohliz, thanks for the tip about Apple Valley Park, that does look like the spot to stay for a few days.

I've finally realized that trying to get to the Eastern end of the island just isn't worth it for this trip. I've already built up such an insane itinerary for that side that I think I'll just save it for a trip this winter, flying straight into Kingston. Also, it seems worthwhile to capitalize on the relative lack of tourist activity in the west at this time of year, and hopefully help people out there keep the lights on and whatnot.

So, now I'm thinking of going to Maggotty/Accomphong for a few days, then making my way down to Black River, which looks pretty easy to do from that area. After a day or so in Black River, I was thinking of heading to Negril, and then using that as a base for the rest of the trip. Ohliz, I'll keep in mind what you've said about Negril- I usually don't mind getting hassled by hustlers (I know, easy to say that beforehand), but I can't see much point in hanging out there for too long if there's nothing worthwhile happening. Of course, from Black River, I can then decide to take a left or a right, or even stay right there if the mood strikes me.

It sounds like I should give up on trying to see any big or "real" shows, and then be pleasantly surprised if something comes along. At any rate, if Peter Tosh's birthday concert actually happens (no concrete evidence of it yet, though it theoretically should still be happening), then that might be enough for this trip.

On a logistical note: while I have your ear, I want to ask one more question:

I'm flying out of Mo Bay at noon. If I were in Negril the night before, would it be a good idea to try to get to the airport that morning? Or is it more prudent to make sure I'm in Mo Bay the night before? Mind you, I'm not worried about sleeping in or anything like that, but rather, the reliability of transport and road conditions early in the morning.

Thanks again,
Damion

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Negril to MoBay is on a modern highway. No need to leave the night before, at all. It's an hour and 15 in no traffic, allow 2 for morning rush hour or whatever and you'll be fine. For a noon flight you probably need to be there by 10 so leave Negril by 8.

The "tourist bus" aka JUTA or Clive's charges $20-25pp for the ride to the airport from Negril.

If you plan to do public transport allow an extra hour or so....

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7

Great, thanks!

Alright, now it's time to count down the weeks until I leave.

Next post should be a trip report....

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I would say to spend your last night in MoBay, simply because that way you can hangout and party that night without having to get up so early to catch your flight.
If not, definitely follow Ohliz advice and leave Negril by 8am.
Also, keep in mind that even with your flight arriving at 11am, by the time you get out of the airport it will be closer to noon, and by the time you get to the bus park to get public transport up to Accomphong it will be 1pm are later, so you will definitely be cutting it close to reach up there by dark, especially using public transport.
GOOD LUCK !!!
And we will be looking for that TRIP REPORT !!
ONE LOVE !!
Mike

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9

Back from this trip, which proved to be amazing. I'll start a separate trip report thread shortly.

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