Looking for nature Princeton to Quebec to Chicago

Hi all...We have just started planning a short road trip leaving Princeton, NJ and looping up through Quebec and Montreal before heading west (through Toronto then Detroit) to Chicago. It's an odd way to get to Chicago, but we drive to Princeton every summer (family) and have done all the more obvious routes. We are nature lovers and would like to hike. Usually we do a more southern route through the Smoky Mountains, but we have done it so many times...

We will visit Quebec city, of course, and Montreal, but I want to get some nature time in and I'm not sure the best spot to spend a few days. Any advice would be great. We are big hikers and trek in South American quite a bit, so we are experienced, but we do have a 12-year old daughter, who slows us a bit. We travel on a budget, so areas that are filled with nothing but ski resorts isn't ideal for us...Thanks for the advice in advance.

Sepaq is Quebec province's well-oiled publicity agency for its extensive national parks.
http://www.sepaq.com/pq/index.dot?language_id=1
(PS: "National" means Quebec to Quebecois, not federal government. Bienvenue a Canada.)

You don't mention Ottawa in your itinerary, but if you do visit, Gatineau Park (not strictly a national park) is just across the river in Quebec, and has several hiking trails, more info here: http://www.ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places-to-visit/gatineau-park

Algonquin Provincial Park is probably southern Ontario's most famous wilderness/recreation experience. Think forest, small lakes, moose ponds, and the like. It's more or less directly west of Montreal by way of Ottawa. Further west there's also Georgian Bay on the east side of Lake Huron. The east shore has some great sea kayaking; Tobermory Peninsula on the west shore has more accessible family camping and some very scenic hikes along the peninsula.

More directly on your route, in between Montreal and Toronto, what about Charleston Lake Provincial Park, Frontenac Provincial Park or a piece of the Rideau Trail (a long-distance path between Ottawa and Kingston)? Hikes short and long, lovely canoeing. Frontenac campsites are walk-in or canoe-in only, which should get you nicely away from the crowds. Charleston Lake has those too, but also regular campsites and even yurts, though those may be fully booked at this point.

Yes, actually Frontenac has ONLY interior, walk-in and/or canoe-in sites. I have a real fondness for the place (it's where I started camping as a teen, without adult supervision, a few decades ago; I even blazed part of the Arab Lake trail a few decades back!) and still like to get out there for a day when I'm in the Kingston area. However, IMO Frontenac is best in spring and fall (and maybe winter?); mid-summer it's simply too hot and buggy, and lacks the kind of wildlife spotting opportunities and sense of big nature "wildness" of a place like Algonquin Park or around Killarney on Georgian Bay. The small lakes and ponds and second-growth forests of Frontenac make a nice break from the city, and it's a great, safe place to be introduced to camping, hiking, and canoeing, but it just doesn't make a big impression... (sorry, Frontenac - you know I'll always love you!).

YMMV

This is great information…thank you. I feel like we might need to visit 2 parks and spend more time…one in Quebec (that Sepac site is insane…wish we had a national parks site like that) and one in Ontario. I would love to visit Georgian Bay, but I think that is another trip. Algonquin might be too out of our way also since by the time we get to Ontario we will be in a rush. Frontenac does appear to be a good stop…but I hate bugs. Would Prince Edward make a good stop? Even if we don't have much time we like to stay in smaller places rather than the big cities, to try and get city living out of our bones before we return to the noise and grime of Chicago...

If all your looking for is a daytrip, a break from the city, rather than a camping experience, then Frontenac might not be such a bad choice in midsummer. The area right around the Visitor Centre is less buggy (though the trails can be a different story, as they go through wetlands) and makes a nice picnic spot - though when I was there last July, the rangers were demonstrating how to fire bear bangers to a group of visitors. Alternately, you could rent a canoe and get out on the water . Frontenac Outfitters is close to the park entrance, and you can easily ferry a canoe on a cartop carrier to the boat launch at Big Salmon Lake. Again, it isn't exactly Canada raw and wild, but Frontenac is a nice place - I visit every summer!

If you hate mosquitos, ummmm. Can you postpone the trip till mid-August or so? Fewer mosquitos then. Either Charleston Lake or Frontenac would give you a modest, miniature taste of the Canadian shield experience. Prince Edward County is more farmland and a few woodlots, plus of course the fine dunes and beaches of Sandbanks, and the views over Lake Ontario. It would be a pleasant place to spend the night after a day in one of the other two parks. The town of Picton, at least two years ago, still felt like it was in a time warp: the main street was like the Ontario towns of my all-too-distant childhood, right down to the angle parking and theatre marquee. Wellington and Bloomfield are pretty, slow, small towns too.

If hiking is your goal, then I think you actually have better options in the US: Vermont, New Hampshire, the Adirondacks - depending on your route, exactly. Most of southern Quebec and Ontario is highly urbanized and agricultural. The hiking in Frontenac is okay; it really works best if you consider doing a canoe trip. There are a series of mountain-parks south of Montreal (Orford, Bromont, Mont-Ste-Hilaire) that have some good hiking but they are nothing like the high peaks of the Adirondacks. The area to the southeast of Montreal - the Eastern Townships - is scenic and a pastoral way, much like Prince Edward County in Ontario. Both areas are gorgeous and great for touring but not to experience "nature." There will be more rigorous outdoors opportunities near Quebec City (but a bit past so not quite on your route).

Yeah, I think we are modifying our plan somewhat. First, I cannot deal with mosquitos and we really want to hike, not canoe. And I am a total sucker for vistas. After spending time on the Sepac site it looks like we would be happier spending more time outside Quebec City and even east a bit though it is off our path. I considered the Adirondacks, or the area around Stowe, VT, but is it rude to say I want to be out of the USA? My daughter has been begging to go to Paris…maybe Quebec City will do for now (croissants, français, pourquoi pas?)Given that, I've been scoping La Maurice, Jacques-Cartier, Grand-Jardins and Hautes-Gorges-de-la Riviere-Malbaie. I realize out of our way, but maybe worth it? Anyone have a preference between those? It just looks beautiful around that area. Unfortunately we will have to have some long driving days west of Montreal, but that is ok. I visited the bookstore last night to look at the LP Canada book…ok, that is a lame book. I think there was one sentence on each of the above parks, so any input appreciated. We could stay in a yurt in Jacques-Cartier, or tentopia (what on earth is that) in HG-de-la-RM. thanks again. Oh, and would be be the strangest tourists ever to NOT sleep in Quebec City? …I realize there is TONS to do…but you can only do so much…perhaps 1 night.

Haven't explored any of the parks in Quebec, but I'm sure they've got some great ones. National Geographic has a nice guidebook to the national parks (as in, federal parks) of Canada, with a useful combination of general descriptions, pictures (of course), and planning info. There also used to be a very useful information centre right in downtown Montreal with plenty of info, including trails maps if I recall, for parks all over the province.

My impression of Quebec City is that it is less like Paris than its own, unique experience: a fusion of historic French culture and New World-ism (is that a thing?). Vieux Quebec, the old part of the city, is a really pleasant, if crowded, siteseeing area. Don't remember much of the modern city - I was last there a few decades ago.

Have a great road trip! If you get a chance, post something about whichever park in Quebec you visit: it's a part of Canada I'd like to learn more about.

La Maurice would be the least out of your way. I like the general area, lots of trees and rocks and water in our Canadian style. Have not been around the others though. A "Tente Huttopia" looks like an a-frame cabin with beds but not much else by way of amenities. Handy, if you weren't going to bring your own tent. Quite possibly comes with screens, a factor if we are still worrying about mosquitos.
Mont Orford also offers vistas. But it is a bit more of a ski area (in my vague memory, sheesh last visited 20 years ago).
There is no law that says you have to stay in our cities.

Most Montreal hikers go to the Adirondacks, but if you want to be out of the USA, some of the best hikes in Quebec outside Gaspésie are Mont Mégantic, Mont du Lac des Cygnes (Grands-Jardins), Acropole des Draveurs (Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie). There are others (Gosford, near Mégantic, some others in Charlevoix) but staying in the parks might be easier on logistic and if you spend enough time in them, it might be worth buying a year pass (it also comes with a free camping night on weekdays). Both Charlevoix hikes are worth it and the drive there is nice. Most people would say the Acropole is more spectacular but I prefer Mont du Lac des Cygnes because there's a loop.

Mont Megantic has an observatory on top. There are visits although I think it's a bit expensive for very little. They also have some activities at night (never tried myself). I like to hike the "3 summit" loop clockwise and late enough so that I'm on Mont St-Joseph in late evening. The nice thing about this hike are the several options to cut it short in case you're tired. There's an easy hike with nice views (again, best in the evening) on the Franceville side next to the campground and another even shorter that is supposed to be opened this very week. Note that you have to drive around the mountain to get from one are to the other. The park is less crowded than the others. Fun fact, Mount Megantic is a monteregian hill like Mount Royal in Montreal and other hills sticking out of the St-Lawrence lowland. They're magma intrusion from a hot spot like Hawaii and the Galapagos except the magma never never made it to the surface. You can see the crater-like aspect of Mount Megantic on Google Earth.

Jacques-Cartier park is a good place to camp since the highway from the park goes right into the heart of Quebec City. "Les Loups" is a good hike but I usually stop at the first view point, which looks best in early morning. Jacques-Cartier is great for white-water canoe and there's rafting on the river (with private outfitters, I believe). Moose sightings are not uncommon.

La Mauricie is a federal park so a Sepaq pass is useless there. There are no mountains there but the hikes are surprisingly nice. The park is best known for lake canoe.

Mont Orford is a ski slope but nothing like a big resort. The best hike there is Pic de L'Ours.

Thanks for the great information Erick. We decided to just spend a long day driving north from Princeton (maybe stopping once) so that we could sleep in Jacques-Cartier for 2 nights and Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie for 2 nights. I had looked at staying in Grands-Jardins but no yurts there and my daughter is dying to stay in a yurt. So I will look up all the recommended hikes above and come up with a plan. Since we are in the area 5 nights (1 in Quebec City after the parks) it seems we should be able to do some of this. I think we will skip La Mauricie due to time…our 6th and 7th night are in Montreal and Toronto…then home. I did call Sepaq about the park pass but since we are not there long it makes sense to pay the daily fee…meighan

The campground in Grands-Jardins isn't that special so you won't miss anything. The hike is very nice and you could do it on your way to or back from Hautes-Gorges. Also, take highway 362 between Baie-St-Paul to La Malbaie once.

thanks! I'm super excited and wish I didn't have to drive from Chicago all the way to South Carolina and up the entire east coast before the destination I really want to get to! Are Baie-St-Paula and La Malbaie worth some time? I'm sure we will at least eat a meal in one...

What I'd do from Quebec City to Hautes-Gorges is to stop whenever you feel like. There are nice sights like Montmorency Falls (parking might be $), Ste-Anne basilica, Ste-Anne canyon (nice but expensive and feels a bit like a tourist trap). Those can be skipped and visited on your way back. On to Baie-St-Paul where you can visit art galleries (some are free) or just walk around the little village, then take highway 362 and stop again when you feel like. You can take the free ferry to Isle- aux- Coudres and drive around the island. I'm more into nature than "human-made" attractions so I can't tell about specifics but it's a much nicer drive than highway 138. It's basically one quaint village after another. If you have campsite reservations with a maximum checking hour, you might want to tell them you'll be there late. La Malbaie itself is nothing special and from there, you can drive straight to the park. BTW, once in La Malbaie you're under an hour from Tadoussac and all the whale watching tours... in case your schedule isn't tight enough. :p

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