Folks,
I thought I would put up a report on my recent gorilla tracking trip in Bwindi.
Firstly, there is no need to go through any sort of travel agent.
I got my permit in the UWA office in Kampala last Monday and was tracking on the wednesday. Granted this is low season, but it is possible to organise it shortly before the day you want to go. The permit is $500 (pay in dollars if you can, I paid in shillings but with their exchange rate this added $45 to the cost).
I got a Bismarkan bus from Kampala to kabale on the Tuesday (30000 Ugandan shillings) and arrived at about 4.30. The gorilla information office they refer to in the lonely planet is now a private company offering expensive tours and transport, so not much use going there for a lift to the park.
I was tracking at ruhija which is 52km away from kabale. I got a boda boda there for 30000 shillings. The first half of the ride was ok as it was on a good road, the second half was pretty uncomfortable and the trip
took about an hour and a half. Having to do it with my backpack on meant I was fairly sore after it.
In ruhija I stayed at the gorilla friends camp. It was $7 to pitch a tent. Unfortunately, being the rainforest in rainy season, there was some horrendous rain and my tent was flooded,. They transferred me to a self contained room, but only charged me for camping which was very decent of them.
I got all my meals at this camp, which were 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts and a packed lunc on the day of the tracking, this came to 55000 shillings.
I was tracking the oruzogo group and met the other people at 7.45. After about an hour, 3 of us went in the back of a pickup, the other 4 had a private vehicle. The starting point was about 15 minutes away. They encourage you to hire a porter, but only 2 of our group did. If you are in anyway fit, it's unnecessary. I think it was 40000 per porter.
We went through the rainforest for about an hour and half, before we reached the gorillas. After all the rain I was quite slippy, and you go up and down some very steep hills, be prepared to end up on your backside. Gloves and long sleeves would be a good idea, as there are some nettles. I had a light fleece with me, but took it off at the very start. Other than that, a big bottle of water and some rain gear if you have it, as well as some food is all you need.
We spent an hour with the gorillas and we couldn't have wished for better. We got right close to a silverback, several black backs, saw a mother and baby. This is just a question of luck on the day you do it I think.
It was about the same length of a walk back...some people really struggled with this, but I think unless you are very unfit it should be fine. We got a lift back to the hq in the same pick up truck. Even though, the guides were really good, I didn't tip. I felt that after paying $500 it was a bit much to expect a tip, if they don't get paid well, with each trip bringing in $4000 it's about time they set up a union!
I had intended to try head back to kabale that night, but after the rain, it didn't seem the best idea to get another boda boda, I had taken my drivers number. I got lucky in that a Dutch couple on my tracking group were driving back the next day and offered me a lift.
I believe there is a truck that leave ruhija, early in the morning and returns in the afternoon which costs 15000 shillings. I'm not certain it goes everyday.
I stayed another night in the room at gorillas friend, I got charges $15 for this. The staff there are exceptionally nice, food was good and they even sell beers for just 3000 shillings.
So in total I got to track the gorillas for just over $600, which would have been less if I had enough dollars to pay the permit. So if a company quotes you $1500 tell them where to go! It's still a lot of money, I think but I have no regrets. If people aren't aware the permits have gone up to $750 in Rwanda as of June 1st. Uganda is expected to follow suit next year, which in my opinion, would make it stupidly expensive.
