Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Travel buddy

Country forums / Africa / Madagascar

I am a 28yo female looking to travel in Sept 2015 and would like to travel with someone like minded to split costs. Dodi's lemur tours comes highly recommended to me from work colleagues. Places of interest include Maroantstra, Masoala NP, Andasibe, Fort Dauphin, Berenty reserve, Faux Cap, Kirindy. I am not adverse to camping and rough travel, am relatively fit and want to see as much wildlife and local culture as possible.

This seventy year old male is not offering to travel with you perhaps you might post on the travel buddies branch if you haven't already done so. Reading your post I wondered how long you intended to be in Madagascar as it is a big place and you seem to want to cover a lot of ground. Also camping is fairly unusual in Madagascar. Suggest Bradt guide for useful information. Wishing you a great trip in a beautiful country.

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Hi thanks for replying.
I have already posted on LP travel buddies branch, I found it after the Africa forum. Am new to this site but it great!
A tour company called Dodo's lemurs comes highly recommended to me from work colleagues, have you heard of them? They tailor make to where you wish to go. I have been quoted for a 19day trip, it includes 6 domestic flights to get around easier. It doesn't include camping but I wish to portray to potential travel buddies that I would prefer to 'rough it' than stay at expensive accommodation. What your company did you use?
Thanks for the Bradt tip, I will look it up.
many thanks again,
E

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6 flights in 19 days. That is one every 3 days, and that's not including your flight to Madagascar and back. Madagascar feels like a one off, exclusive destination, so people feel like they have to cram a small bit in from every area. Honestly, I would recommend taking it slow and concentrating on one or two areas in that time. Think about what you want to do most and group a few activities together. For example going east to Andasibe and then on to Ille St Marie and flying back is nice. Perhaps you could get a connecting flight out west and see the baobab valley, kirindy and the tsingy. That would be more than enough for your time.

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Morning,
You raise a valid point, its is a lot of flying. Madagascar may be a once off destination for me. I live in Australia and overseas travel is very expensive and there is so much in the world I wish to see. Thanks for your advise I shall look into it.

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Ahhh.. our timing is a tad off. I will be in Mad beginning in June and I will be leaving on September 5. I have already been to Masoala, Andasibe, and Kirindy and was hoping to at least return to Masoala. I could recommend a place for you in Masoala if you're intrested. If you're already up in Maroantstra, I highly recommend flying up to Sambave and doing Marojejy NP. Not many people get up there, but really, just having a chance to see the critically endangered Silky Sifaka is well worth it. I can recommend you contact Dr Erik Patel, who does research in the Park. I spent four days there in July 2013 and it was breathtaking. Some of the last remaining Primary Forests remaining in Madagascar. Kirindy was also very cool.... Saw plenty of Verraux Sifakas, Red tailed Sportive lemurs, Red Fronted Brown Lemurs, Forked Crowned Lemurs, the fossa, and we even had a visit by the resident Giant Jumping Rat, one night. Anyway, I'd be happy to make some recommendatrions. I had visited Mad back in 2005 and again in 2013. I have never been down to Fort Dauphin, so that is definitely a place I will visit next summer.
Good luck,
Tom

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Ok, I just saw the rest of your post...

Umm.. yea, I agree with EJ King. With 19 days, you can definitely do Masoala, Marojejy, and Andasibe. Arrive in Tana and stay at a hotel near the airport. The Cheval Blanc is a good one for the location (1km away from Ivato airport) and they also have free shuttle service - http://www.cheval-blanc-madagascar.com/). I suggest you do all your currency exchange here at the airport, being that there are NO ATMs in most of Madagascar.. Also, you get the best rates at the airport. If you're adventurous, you could try the black market exchange in town, but as a single female traveler, probably not your safest bet. I did a black market exchange back in 2005 and got a very good rate for the USD, but didn't try it again in 2013. Anyway, next day, take a flight to Maroansetre and spend at least 5 days in Masoala (with a stop on Nosy Mangabe). I would have recommended staying the night on the island, but bc they stopped allowing evening treks, it's probably not worth it anymore.. In 2005, I was able to see a Malaghasy Boa, many Mouse Lemurs and heard an Aye Aye scraping away the bark of a tree, up in the canopy. After Masoala, grab a flight to Sambave (shouldn't cost more that 160 Euro for a one-way, but check the website)Organize a trip to Masoala NP. Again, I could provide some information for you, if this what you decide to do. Then you could fly back to Tana (Antananarive) and from there, do Andasibe (only a few hours drive from the capital on a decent road). In total, that itinerary would take about 17-19 days... You get to see magnificent wildlife including the Red Ruffed Lemur, Black and White Ruffed Lemur, Silky Sifaka and the Indri. Not to mention all sorts of birds/geckos/iguanas and other nocturnal lemur species. In Masoala, I saw the Helmet Vanga (beautiful bird) no less than three times, but supposedly, I was very lucky. Some birders for there for a week, specifically to see this bird, and have no luck - then they get all pissy with their guides for not seeing it! lol Morons..

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sorry, I meant to say I agree with roryG

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You may also decide to substitute Sambave/Marojejy for the West Coast and do Kirindy. However, if you enjoy really good hikes (probably one of toughest parks I've ever had to hike in, but worthwhile) and amazing wildlife, it's a prime option. Check out this Doc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ny45z5m6Tow regarding Marojejy NP

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Wow thanks carharias for all the info. So did you travel independently through the country or organise a guide for the whole lot etc? If I go I may just stick with kirindy, andasibe and fort dauphin/berenty and spend more time at the places.

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No worries.

I mostly travel independently.... But I don't mind sharing a few itinerary segments, from time to time;)
In Madagascar, I've never hired a company. Back in 2005, that option was barely available... Now, I just find the prices way too expensive. Every park/reserve is different. For Kirindy and Andasibe, just just show up to the office and they'll arrange your guide. BTW, the distance between the road and the Kirindy Office/Accomodation is about 5 km, NOT 2km, as Bradt states. I took a taxi Brousse to that point. A two km isn't all that bad, but when 2km becomes 5km and you have all 35Kg with you (80 litre pack plus my day pack), in the sun/heat, it wasn't pleasant. I suggest you hire a cab/car to take you right to the office (from Morondova)... it's well worth the extra cash;) Oh, in Andasibe, don't get sucked into taking a guide that hangs around your accomodation, In 2005, I didn't realize that you could just walk up to the entrance of the park and have a choice.. The guide I got in 2005 ended being a drunk... I did see the Indri, so it wasn't a total disaster! Last year, I just decided to to the Park entrance and it's pretty organized there.

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No worries.

I mostly travel independently.... But I don't mind sharing a few itinerary segments, from time to time;)
In Madagascar, I've never hired a company. Back in 2005, that option was barely available... Now, I just find the prices way too expensive. Every park/reserve is different. For Kirindy and Andasibe, just just show up to the office and they'll arrange your guide. BTW, the distance between the road and the Kirindy Office/Accomodation is about 5 km, NOT 2km, as Bradt states. I took a taxi Brousse to that point. A two km isn't all that bad, but when 2km becomes 5km and you have all 35Kg with you (80 litre pack plus my day pack), in the sun/heat, it wasn't pleasant. I suggest you hire a cab/car to take you right to the office (from Morondova)... it's well worth the extra cash;) Oh, in Andasibe, don't get sucked into taking a guide that hangs around your accomodation, In 2005, I didn't realize that you could just walk up to the entrance of the park and have a choice.. The guide I got in 2005 ended being a drunk... I did see the Indri, so it wasn't a total disaster! Last year, I just decided to to the Park entrance and it's pretty organized there.

Here is something I found on the net regarding Misinjo:
Just opposite of the entrance to Andasibe-Mantadia National Park is a local initiative by Association Mitsinjo who manages the Analamazaotra Forest Station. Here's what Rainer Dolch had to say: "Their forest is in an excellent state, you see indri (one group of which has been habituated by an extraordinary guy called Joseph), and it seems you have a much better chance to see Uroplatus and Parson’s chameleon in the Mitsinjo forest than in the national park. Also, Mitsinjo are the only guides that offer nightwalks in the forest (and not the usual walk along the road that most Andasibe visitors are used to). Tours to the Mitsinjo forest are cheaper than tours in the national park, and your money will be used for community projects in agriculture and health for the people living around the forest managed by the association.

Anyway, I can't seem to find their website, but if you google hard enough, you'll find it.
Oh, I forgot to mention... In Kirindy, don't be pressured into getting a non-English speaking guide. I had an English guide for a couple of treks, but then they decided to switch me over to this old, drunk, rude French speaking guy on the second day. I refused to accept him, being that he was generally pretty loud and obnoxious and I also couldn't understand a word he was saying (even though my French is pretty good).

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You sound a lot like me! I'm 37 , female, from upstate NY, USA, and plan to go for the first time this September/October, with a week or two first in South Africa. My very cool fun mother is going to be my companion, and we are looking for lots of nature, authentic culture, and just getting back to real human roots, letting the outside world go! We are in moderate physical shape, plan to hike and kayak all summer to get in better condition, as we want to do some hiking and canoeing there, get our hands dirty a bit, but also get into the local rums and dry out on nice beaches some days, lol. We really would love to unite with some fellow Westerners for travel and fun while there, even if it's not for the whole time. Aside from company and companionship from similar cultural backgrounds to share thoughts with, we would others to split prices with so we ALL get more out of Madagascar :) ( Airfare from the USA is insane, eating up a lot of budget)
Cheers!
Emily

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Hi Emily,

Yes, being in a group drastically reduces costs. I have always traveled solo, so I'm always paying through my nose lol Anyway, there are pros to traveling alone, as well. Regarding flights.. Well, I'm kinda lucky.... I use aeroplan miles(associated with Staralliance) for my big haul flights. Get this, I am flying Toronto/Johannesberg; Johannesberg/Bali; Bali/Toronto. I am using 100,000 miles but only spending $142 Canadian dollars!! From Johannesberg, I booked my own return flight with Air Madagascar (very expensive for a 3 hour flight). However, the major pro regarding this, is that while in Madagascar, you can book every domestic flight for half price, as long as you're long haul flight (international flight) into the country is with AirMadagascar. Internal flights have gone skywards over the last few years, so getting tix for half off really helps, especially when we're talking about Madagascar and their roads (or the lack there of). Anyway, I will be in Madagscar between June 23 and September 5, 2015, so it looks like we'll miss eachother. I am flying to Indonesia after that point and tarveling through Komodo, Sulawesi, Java, Sumatra, and Borneo. If you need any travel advice regarding South Africa, let me know. I have been there four times.

All the best,
Tom

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and of course, hit me up for any tips on Madagascar as well.

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Unfortunately I won't be making it to Madagascar this year, thanks everyone for the information. I hope to make it one day! Good luck with your next travel adventures!

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