Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Partner(s) needed for Mt. Kenya climbing

Country forums / Africa / Kenya

I'd like to climb Mt. Kenya in June, with a start possibly as early as June 7th, a finish no later than June 16th. I have crampons, ice-axe, etc., and beginner-level experience using them, albeit only at moderate altitudes. (Reference available on request.) Most of my climbing experience has been moderate rock-climbing on California granite. I'd prefer to go up with someone who's done an East Africa peak already. I can be flexible about routes, specific peaks and technical difficulty -- the easiest route is fine, and I'm willing to try the hardest route if the partner has experience with it. Happy to go with more than one other partner as well.

Hi Avatar,
Congratulation for opting to scale mount Kenya. The prime attraction for rock climbers and mountaineers are the twin peaks of Nelion (5188) and Batian (5199 m). Below these peaks are a complexity of fields of scree and ice, ridges, walls and couloirs, which offer high standard technical rock and ice routes of about 640 to 1190m in length at an altitude of more than 4420m above sea level. Although accurate grading is impossible due to variable seasonal and meteorological conditions, climbs are graded according to the technical difficulties they pose. About half of the climbs are Alpine Grade V and IV. Under Prime conditions, some of the routes are easier while under bad conditions, a route may be a grade or more harder. There are two major technical rock and ice climbing routes on Mt. Kenya; the North face standard route of Batian and the Normal South East face of Nelion route. we did an eight day trip with a local agency. I am not sure if they may have some people around the dates you intend to take this trip. The best advice, just contact them @ www.rightchoicesafaris.net

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