Just returned from amazing Madagascar trip- thanks and comments on hotels

Hi,

I want to thank those forum members who recommended Jenita Jaozandry to me (destinordvoyage@yahoo.fr). He really looked after me on my trip. I just got back today.

Overall, I had a fab trip! It was totally wildlife focused and I covered Andasibe, Ilatsara, Ranomafana, Anja, Isalo, Zombitse, Ifaty, Anakao and Lac Tsimanampetsotsa. I will write a full trip report with photos and link to it from here but for now I wanted to put down some initial thoughts about the trip that might help with future travellers' plans.

Traveling solo is great in one way because you can tailor make your trip of course and decide when to stay at a sighting and when to move on. However, I also found it had some drawbacks. Firstly, we discussed the importance of getting some really good local English-speaking and bird-savvy guides and Jenita had lined up several for the trip (nearly all the parks require you to have a local park guide). However, we were let down a few times by these guides. In Andasibe, we were told when we arrived that the guide we booked had been asked to guide his last client for a few extra days. So he dropped us and Jenita had to find a replacement at very short notice. At Ifaty, the guide Jenita had spoke to about guiding us decided to take another tour group instead. The guide we were given tended to disappear off for a long time and seemed rather un-entusiastic. If it we not for some other guides effectively handing us sightings, we would not have seen as much as we did.

Similar story in Isalo too. We did, however have very good bird guides in Ranomafana and Zombitse. And even with these "issues" we still saw most of the birds and all but one of the lemurs I hoped to see. We also got lucky with Fosa along the main road one morning when leaving Ranomafana and also a ring-tailed mongoose.

The second issue is that there are very few english-speaking people in Madagascar, and if your french is rusty to non-existent then this can be very isolating at times, as your guide or driver will tend to eat apart from you (because of how it works with the hotel). It was really nice when I met other english-speakers who invited me to join them, if anyone reads this, thank you!

Thirdly, everyone expects a tip, and this can get expensive if you are traveling alone- and I think that is also why getting the best guides is so hard if you are traveling alone (bigger groups = bigger tips).

Generally I would say the hotels/lodges were okay to good. Some of the beds, espcially the pillows were quite hard and I found them uncomfortable. However, one exception was Longo Vezo in Anakao. I need to mention that this place does not have any plumbing. Apparently it is the same for nearly all the hotels in this small resort, so you can't really fault them for this, but be aware! You get buckets of sea water to wash with and flush toilets with. It was otherwise comfortable but also they were not at all transparent with the costs.

For example, Jenita asked them to book me a room and asked if possible if it could be a beach front cottage. He was originally told that was fine and at no cost change. But they there reneged on this and charged extra for the room, apparently telling him only when the bill was presented.

Also the trip to Lac Tsimanampetsotsa was originally quoted at 100 euros, by Longo Vezo when we made enquiries a few months ago. But then when we arrived, it changed to 100 plus fuel plus the cost of the picnic lunch. Lunch was 80,000 ariary (about £23) and all we got was a single bread roll containing a plain omlette and tomato and some mineral water! For comparison, a main meal is around 13000 to 16000. The time of the trip also changed and I wasn't told so I got up earlier than I needed to.

We missed getting to Nosy Ve because the only boat they were willing to use was one of the local sailing boats and there was a strong head wind. It would have been great if an alternative motor boat could have been offered.

Also avoid the cocktails in the village bars, they will mess you up big time!

Finally, if you are planning to go to Mantadia, be advised that the road is really bad. We didn't have a 4x4 and trashed a tyre on the way back!

All the best

Jo

Thank you very much for your interesting report kittykat.

I've travelled alone in Madagascar and my French is primitive so I share your experience.

Jo, thanks for such a complete report. My wife and I will be in MAD starting October 22 to November 15 and we are serious about using Jenita for the tour part of the visit. He seems to be a great guide but also someone who will take care of us as a friend. Was that your impression? Regards

Yes he is a star! Feel free to pm me for my email address and phone number if you want to chat!