mariadne- I was there for one month in the 1980s, between the slaughters. It was quiet, lush, and fertile. Yes, I made the trek and saw the gorillas and enjoyed the European qualities grafted onto the country, like the restaurants and bakery products. At the Mille Colies Hotel (yes, the same one that gained future fame) I took in the disturbing black and white photos of the slaughter of the inconvenient elephant herd. Did that animal event portend future developments with humans? I was glad to see the famed photos, but I did wonder what kind of place would display them so openly.
The awareness of the past was present all the time, and there was a feeling that all the present niceness could (would?) evaporate very quickly. There was also a sense of marvel at the density of the population, the number of huts on those green hills. Foreigners with rural backgounds also marveled at the richess of the soil. All the dirt was like potting compound, with multiple crops possible. The land right up to the gorilla park was intensively farmed.
So, yes, I was there and I soaked up the German-Belgian (including Flemish)-French-Tutsi-Hutu vibrations. The nearest bright lights were in Nairobi, and Rwandans marveled at what they saw there. One comment of a Rwandan colleague in Nairobi concerned how groups of Kenyans who did not know each other all ate and drank in the same restaurant, rather in family groups at home, like Rwanda.
When it all comes apart I try to match match up what I had experienced with what is in the news.
I am cetainly aware of the intense desire of many Rwandans to find a future outside their country.
One last observation: I was struck by the number and range of missionary groups in the country. Most were from small independent churches rather than the more mainline denominations more commonly found in mission work. I have no idea how this last observation fits into the whole history of Rwanda, including the recent history.
