We've been travelling in Rwanda for a couple of weeks and couldn't find any info about working ATMs before we came. I'm happy to report that we just used an ATM at Ecobank in central Kigali, and got francs at a rate of 568/USD (that compares to about 570/USD that we've gotten changing 100-dollar bills). Ecobank used some version of the visa network to do the withdrawal, but it posted right away to our bank account in the US.
Our bank (Bank of America in San Francisco) also charged a $5 foreign ATM fee, so we'd have done better withdrawing a larger amount. But this should significantly simplify travelling, as one of the real pains is figuring out how to hide all the cash you're carrying around.
Also, for the gorillas, we wired money via Western Union before we came and it all worked out. It's a little scary to send cash to someone you've never met but for us it ended well.
