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Hello Helpful Namibia Insiders: Sorry this is long, so bear with me. I have done such extensive research the past week, maybe this will help others plan their trip, too.
BACKGROUND: Family of five (children ages 14, 11, 9—at the time of trip) traveling to Namibia from approx. 12/18-1/8 (20+ days). Self-drive trip. Considering Swak, Damarland, Etosha, Tsumkwe, Caprivi and Waterberg
A couple comments first:
1. CAR: I plan on renting a Toyota Condor because the Brandt guide suggested this 2WD for 5-6 people. What do you think of this car?

2. CAPRIVI: Camp Kwando--in reading the reviews it seems to have awful management service. Anyone care to comment here? I'd prefer this location to Lianshulu which seems to be larger geared more for big groups.
3. Windhoek guesthouses: Terra Africa or Rivendell?
6. Damarland--any recommendations for a working guest farm somewhere in region?

7. Anyone heard of Francolino Fly-ins lodging near Twyfelfontein? It looks so cool, but according to Namiweb it is closed. Any updates?
8. We want to keep the driving times between 4-5 hours max. In reviewing our itinerary, does this seem feasible?
9. Botswana--Would love a river boat trip into Botswana for two nights while in Caprivi, if possible, and if worthwhile-change of scenery?
10. NOTE: We can add a day or two to this itinerary if needed.

SFO-Walvis Bay or Windhoek on British Airway (only airline I can find that will go from SFO to Namibia; haven’t looked at cost to fly home from Wind yet-couldn’t find this option on website) My reasoning behind flying into WB—not interested in spending time in Windhoek, so this saves one night of accommodations and driving from Wind-Swak. Rent 2WD (Toyota Condor or VW Microbus—not sure of cost for this vehicle, open viewing of luggage?)

• Swak-3 nights at Brigadoon. In the matter of time and keeping the children in mind, I’ve decided against visiting Sossusvlei. I thought we could possibly do a fly-over day trip adding Skeleton Coast, too, but it may be cost-prohibitive. We would like to take Tommy’s Tours and Safaris, Mola Mola Sandwich Harbor 4x4 and Eco Marine Kayak trip; Kids would love to go sand surfing; plus the possible flight to Soss. Our two sons (ages 14 and 9) and my husband would love to go on quad bikes if possible. I will stay far away from these, as I managed to almost overturn one on a palm tree in Dominican Republic last year knocking my 9 year old daughter off—no injuries, but very embarrassing!

• Damarland-2 nights We heard about a EHRA project in Anixab along the Ugab River (northwest of Uis) that helps out the Gariseb School. We would like to visit this school. I’ve inquired with EHRA to see if there is a holiday project (painting or something) that they may be working on that we could help for a day or two. We’d also like to visit some of the sights around Damarland—petrified forest, possibly Twyflefontein (though too many rock engraving stops will lose the children’s interest). I only read on tidbit on this, but the Wondergat sounded intriguing. Of course, we’d give anything to see the Desert Elephants! Also, I’m hoping we’ll be able to hear the “tick” language being spoken. I have NO idea where to stay! If we do this project Brandberg White Lady Lodge appears to be close, but it got terrible reviews on Trip Advisor. Perhaps a nice guest house/working ranch?

If we don’t do this project than we’re more flexible on where we go. Perhaps we just spend one night at Vingerklip Lodge (does this have large busloads of visitors?), or another one I found interesting is Franco Fly-ins—not that I’m really interested in the flying portion, but the accommodations seemed interesting. I love the idea of sleeping under the stars and the outdoor shower. Also, closer to attractions and I know we won’t want to drive much on a rest day!

• Etosha-3 nights (most likely at Okaukuejo and Etosha Aoba Lodge—but still considering Namutoni or Halili, though I was thinking this could be a lunch stop on the way to the eastern side of park) Would we see more if we hired a guide to take us around at either location? It may be nice for us to take a break from driving while in the park, though, I hear this is part of the experience.

• Nhomo Camp, near Tsumkwe-3 nights We’re really excited about this. A chance to spend time with Bushman while they hunt. Can we drive on C44 to camp with our Toyota Condor?

• Rundu at Hakusembe River Lodge—1 night; Anyone been here?

• Mahango National Park area—2 or 3 nights. I’m still debating between Ngepi, Ndhovu and Mahangu. Ngepi—what I like: cage pool in river, tree houses with reed walls, activities. Not so sure if nightlife will be too loud for the family. We may be too old for this place. Lovely and relaxing looking tents. One possibly on the river—how cool! Mahangu—anyone been to help me out here?

• Mudumu Park environs—2 or 3 nights. Still debating between Lianshulu--hear the excursions are ridiculously expensive particularly the one to Kwando Lagoon Camp which sounded interesting to me. Like the idea of the new suites with individual plunge pools, but this probably comes at a hefty price. Worried that this is where tourist groups congregate. Camp Kwando—place looks great, but terrible reviews regarding staff/management on Expert Africa website. Wondering if this will change? I’d love to do the overnight to Mamili Nat’l Park suggested in a guidebook. Perhaps a trip to Botswana for a night.

• Rundu at Hakusembe River Lodge—1 night again, or could we make it to Roy's? How long a drive is this from Mudumu area?

• Frans Indongo near Waterberg-1 or 2 nights

• Windhoek before flight--Terra Africa or Rivendell? Any suggestions

I've been researching extensively, and truly appreciate any help you can give me. Thank you.

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I stayed at Terra Africa last year, very friendly clean place, breakfasts very nice too!, the evening meal is cooked by the owners mother, the menu is limited but very tasty, good wine selection. I stayed there for 5 days in total, and would go back again. Rolf, the owner is a very "bouncy" friendly man about mid 20s, nothing seemed too much trouble for him, booking taxis, etc. There is a safe on site, the place is full of local artists work which makes it quite special.

It has a small garden and pool, and a resident tortoise, (could entertain the kids).

Thats my bit help! hope you have a fantastic time!

Lynda

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Note: Caprivi had terrible floods a few weeks ago during April. All the Game Reserves in the Caprivi does not have fixed accommodation except for one on the banks of the Kwando River (forgot its name). If you want to bore the kids, go to the Caprivi!
Twyfelfontein is great as you walk a lot to see the rock engravings, my kids were 10 and 7 and they enjoyed it. There are about three lodges very close to Twyfelfontein ranging from expensive to less expensive. Palmwag Lodge - not to far from Twyfelfontein - will be a good option - game drives to search for the dessert rhino and elephant. Carry on to Fort Sesfontein and as you will not be driving a 4x4, hire a guide and go into the dessert wilderness, fantastic!
Swakopmund, the Gem House is also great for kids. Swakopmund also offer various quad bike outings no racing! Walvis Bay, yes a trip to Sandwhich Harbour (4x4) is also great and the all that you mentioned.
Sossusvlei does have a special touch to it, even for kids - very few people can clame that they've climed the highest dune in the world and sliding down! Then very close to Sossusvlei is Sesriem Canyon - short but for kids it is huge - my kids now 25 still remember the huge cliffs!
Do not under estimate young children's sense for adventure, unless they are spoilt brats and only adventure they have is PC games!
Etosha, find out the cost for your family in the park's accommodation versus the lodges you mentioned. Etosha has become very expensive lately even for campers, but in general lodges in Etosha is even more expensive.

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Phew...long post! You won't get busloads of visitors at Vingerklip Lodge; it's fairly upmarket and sufficiently small that it can only accommodate limited numbers. It's a lovely lodge in a stunning location though. I'd recommend it. I stayed there several years ago. From memory, the family chalets have a sort of mezzanine floor where you can stick the kids for sleeping. The younger ones at least will love having to climb up a wooden ladder to get to their sleeping area. I hope they haven't changed that!

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CAPRIVI???
Can anyone else comment about Caprivi Strip? I've had my heart set on seeing that area and the hippos. Do you think the lodges will still be closed in December? Where can I read about the current flood situation there? Is it really "boring?" We're an urban San Francisco family whose wildlife experience include deers and bunnies...so we're definitely not jaded when it comes to the African wildlife experience. This will all be new to us.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts.

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I doubt the lodges will still be closed in December - any affected by the floods should have well and truly dried out by then. Of course the rain could already have started again but the chances of another flood at that time and of that extent are remote. I'm not really sure what the wildlife situation is like in Mudumu or Mamili as usually 4x4 self-drivers need a partner car and we have never done that. Obviously you are planning to see this area from excursions with the camps/lodges you want to book.

Check that the ones you book are accessible by 2 wheel drive. Lianshulu is expensive but you won't find tourists congregating there! :)
Toyota Condor will be fine depending on the answer to the above.
We always stay at Rivendell, can recommend it.
I don't think the Caprivi will be boring if you are able to do a few game drives and river activities at the places you stay - especially as this is your first trip to Africa. However I would actually spend a 1 or 2 less days there and use those days in Etosha instead.
You definitely do not need a guide in Etosha. Half the fun is doing the game drives yourself and its easy, you can't get lost and you WILL see game. I would stay at Okakuejo so that you can take in the floodlit waterhole by night. We love Onguma Lodge on the other side. It borders the Etosha boundary. Their entrance is right next to the park gate. Their bush lodge chalets and rooms are reasonably priced, their camping area is fantastic and the whole place is fairly small and intimate.

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Caprivi boring? Well, it may depend on what you want to do...

I travelled across the Caprivi last year and I'm afraid I found it boring as hell, a real disappointment. It is flat - ie flat like the prairies - and the road across is straight, all the way. There aren't any breaks in the road between Rundu and Katima Mulilo, just one long, straight, flat road. So on the basis of my own personal experience, yes I think it's really dull.

That said, I believe there ARE some nice lodges there so if you want to go to the Caprivi for a specific purpose then it may indeed be one long barrel of laughs. I have to say though that if your only reason for going there - as mine was - is to get across it quickly (I was on my way from Windhoek up to Zambia) then my advice is to drive as fast as you possibly can.

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