Just returned from a fantastic trip Namibia and wanted to give something back to this forum, as it was really helpful for us when making plans.
Normally book all trips myself, but on this occasion, given the way the economy was going, wanted a bit more security. Booked in December 2008 for a trip in May 2009, used Rainbow Tours in London, and can’t recommend them enough, especially Megan. Told them where and when we wanted to stay and they booked it all. If anybody wants a specific review of places we stayed please ask and I’ll be honest.
We had a 4x4 with roof tent and had the following itinerary:
Arrive Windhoek – overnight at Pension Steiner
Naukluft Campsite - 1 night
Sesriem Campsite - 1 night
Sossus Dune Lodge, Sesriem - 2 nights
Swapokmund, Alte Brucke Resort - 2 nights
Palmwag Campsite - 2 nights
Etosha : Okaukuejo Bush Chalet – 2 nights
Halali Campsite – 1 night
Namutoni Campsite – 1 night
Waterberg Plateau Chalet – 1 night
The roof tent worked a treat and easy to put up/take down. The only problem with the car (from Caprivi Car Hire) was the amount of dust/sand that got into the rear section where everything is stored. Couldn’t keep the bags in there as they just got covered in dust. It didn’t seem to be very sealed – saw lots of other 4x4 hires on the road which seemed to be more secure/sealed. Maybe it was normal I don’t know, but ended up getting even muckier than normal getting chairs and food and stuff out whilst camping. Fridge was ok, kept drinks cool, but runs from car battery so couldn’t leave it on permanently – plans for food shopping had to change accordingly. Covered just over 3200km in 2 weeks on 4 full tanks (80 lites) of diesel, about £40 each time.
If you are staying at Sesriem its well worth staying at either the campsite or lodge to get on the road to Sossusvlei before the main gates open. Times vary during the year, google the time for sunrise/sunset in any given month and take off 1 hour. We were there in early May, sunrose at 6.15am, so we could get into the park at 5.15am. The same at sunset, the main gates shut an hour before the internal ones, so we could stay a bit longer before the rush back. We didn’t bother with the Dune 45 sunrise thing, but headed straight to the end and walked up Deadvlei when nobody else was around – magical. And yes if you have a 4x4 you can drive to the end, very easy.
Also took a hot air balloon trip which was stunning, but the dunes are very distant, don’t imagine that you fly over them! Well worth doing. Also took a scenic flight over the dunes from Swapokmund – the only way to get any sense of scale. Expensive but worth it.
We took the Skeleton Coast route from Swapokmund to Palmwag, wanted a change of scenery. Took a long time but very dramatic - to us. Just get out of the car every now and then for a wander. Arrived at the junction for the C39 turn off about an hour before sunset, and drove toward the mountains as the sun was setting behind us, turning the mountains redder and redder. Very memorable. Did end up driving to Palmwag in the dark – not recommended!
Some of the roads in this region are still quite poor since the heavy rains, even in a 4x4. One section can be good gravel at 80kmph, then part of the road has been washed away so be careful.
Only a few things we’d change:
• Not stay in Windhoek. Didn’t know how we’d feel after an overnight flight, but if we did it again, would collect car and head off, even if only to get a few hours down the road. Kea campers had an office at the airport.
• Naukluft campsite – don’t stay if it’s a weekend, full and very noisy. Stay more than 1 night, got there too late to start either hike and had to leave early next day.
• Definitely wouldn’t camp in Swapokmund in May – glad that we didn’t, it was freezing cold and very windy – quite like the British seaside in fact!
Couple of Hints & Tips
• Buy a stock load of museli bars – very handy for all the early morning sunrise activities you’ll be doing – at the dunes, in etosha, game drives etc. Easy to grab a bar when sat at a waterhole watching the lions
• Camping – don’t expect to sleep much beyond sunrise, everyone is up and away for all the early morning stuff. If the sun doesn’t wake you the sound of tents packing up and cars driving off will.
• C27 thru Namib Rand Nature Reserve – stunning scenic route unexpectedly quite a lot of game to see.
• Allow a lot more time than you think for any journey. 80kmph is a maximum, not recommended speed on gravel roads. Never know what’s going to be around the next corner – road washed away or herd of springbok. Take the time and savour the scenery.
• Plan a least some time to sit and chill
Its a beautiful country, so much variet,y and will definitely be returning to spend some quality time in Damaraland. Enjoy