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Hello fellow travellers,

I am hiring a 2WD in South Africa where I am currently based.Apparentlly car hire companies want R1000 for crossing each border, it this true?

I would like too take a trip around about 8 December - 23 December around these two countries.

Day 1 - drive from CT to Fish River Canyon or near the border - sleep where?
Day 2 - Fish River Canyon - sleep
Day 3 - Sousvlei - sleep
Day 4 - Drive to Windhoek - sleep
Day 5 - Windhoek - sleep Chamelon Backpackers?
Day 6 - Windhoek - sleep
Day 7 - Swakopmund
Day 8 - Walvis Bay
Day 9 - Drive Skeleton coast, side trip too petrifies forest
Day 10 - Enter Etosha, sleep
Day 11 - Etosha, sleep

Botswana is the real big question ..... Where is advisable to cross the border with a 2WD as I heard the roads are bad in Botswana.

Day 12 - Caprivi strip?
Day 13 - Okavango Delta is a must!! Please advise companies to use and cost?
Day 14 - Francistown
Day 15 - Gabs
Day 16 - Gabs

South Africa

Day 17- Kimberley
Day 18 - CT

I am easy going guy and backpacker and would really appreciate some advice on where to stay and if the trip is worthwhile.

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Hi,

Can't comment on the fees charged by the agencies but it makes sense that they would charge extra as there will be extra paperwork to produce on their part. Make sure you have all the papers you need to cross the border. There will also be some extra costs - for example you need to pay Customs for a cross border permit when entering Namibia (keep this as you will need it on leaving) and in Botswana you'll need to pay for third party insurance for the car. I can't recall the exact costs but if you look up the SA AA there is a spreadsheet listing exact requirements and costs at each border.

If you are on a budget I suggest you take camping gear. There are a limited number of places where you can get backpacker type accommodation and having a tent will give you a lot more flexibility. Bear in mind however that even camping at premium locations eg Sesriem (for Sossusvlei) and Etosha (if you camp in the park) are expensive ie c. $40 a night. Check out NWR for exact info.

Two things strike me about your intinerary.

Firstly you are spending time in some large cities (Windhoek/Francistown/Gaberone)which are a) difficult to drive and especially to park in with a limited amount for tourists to do. They certainly aren't where most people would head for when visiting the area but you may have your reasons.

Secondly there are big stretches of your itinerary you haven't allowed sufficient time for. The distances here are large and the roads often a lot slower than you'd expect (certainly a lot slower than SA).

So Etosha to Maun (jumping off point for the Okavango) via the Caprivi is at least two possibly three overnight stops. You will then need to arrange your trip and ideally allow a couple of days to do this. Many other parts of your trip will involve a full days driving to get there and you'll have to set off again the next morning so won't have time to do whatever you came for! Try and limit your stops and possibly your distance and have two nights in most places.

I suggest you get hold of the Tracks4Africa paper maps for both Namibia and Botswana. These will give you accurate journey times for the roads you want to travel. This is particularly important in Namibia where two roads that may look the same on an ordinary map but one can take 3 times as long as the other. Make sure you get a hire car with everything you need to change a tyre, blow outs are very common on the gravel roads and always carry extra water just in case you break down. The roads in Botswana are good tar unless you enter a game reserve in which case you need a good 4x4 (and they won't let you in otherwise).

Hope that points you in the right direction.

Edited by: itchyfeet38

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great advice given by itchyfeet.

i also think that you are trying to fit in too much. one night only at sossusvlei for example is not enough imo, especially considering that you will be spending several hours to travel there, so will arrive only in the afternoon, and on the next day you will have also about 4 hours (at least) to drive to windhoek. with two weeks, i would concentrate on namibia and keep botswana for another trip.

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The fee is correct...it is about $100 per border permission.
The roads in Botswana are excellent.
There was only one stretch that comes to mind that had potholes. Driving through the Kalihari
there were the domestic animals that occasionally cross the road, keeps you on your toes.
The Caprivi strip is pretty but doesn't have a tremendous amount to offer. We entered it after leaving
the Okavanga Delta and seemed similar but maybe a little more developed.
If possible it would be really good to forgo some of the cities in Namibia for a couple of days in Maun to do a Mokorro trip.

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Thank you for all the advice,

I dont have to stick to this itinerary exactlly, but its more or less what i want too see.

1) Can someone suggest a place to stay in Fish River Canyon as it will be my first stop from CT
2) The Skeleton coast is it possible to drive it from Swakaopmund? The i would like too see Petrified forest on route and enter Etosha? Could someone explain best possible way?
3) From Etosha what is best way into Bots?
4) Can anyone suggest a route and itinerary for about 7 days Bots trip please!! Okavango Delta is a must though!!
5) I am meeting some in Gabs for one night also.

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Why are you going to WDH and spend so much time there? It's a big detour, I would go FR - Sossusvlei - Swakopmund - Torra Bay - Khorixas - Etosha.

In Torra Bay you can see the seals and on your way from there to Khorixas visit the petrified forrest.

As itchyfeet wrote, too much driving in too little time, if you spend the money to have a night at Dolomite Camp in Etosha you can enter at the Galton Gate, if not you have to use the Anderson Gate close to Okaukuejo, leave Etosha at the Lindequist Gate, drive down to Grootfontein - Rundu - Bagani into the delta, but I'm not sure if that can be done with a 2x4, otherwise you have to drive from Etosha to WDH and from there to Maun.

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Re your questions.

1) I think FRC wlll be too far. It will be 10 hours minimum from CT. More likely 12 when you factor in the border. Plus the last couple of hours will be on gravel and trust me you do not want to be doing this in the dark after 10 hours at the wheel. I would allow for an overnight stop and see how far you get before you're tired. At FRC stay at the FRC campsite (Hobas) or Canon Roadhouse on the road into the park.

2) Don't get too exited about the Skeleton Coast. The bit you see on the TV isn't not open to drive in visitors. By all means visit the seals at Cape Cross but don't expect too much in the way of atmosphere ... It will be busy with fishermen in December. See if you can factor in a night at Spitzkoppe (you'll need to be camping). Amazing place.

3) Probably up to Divundu then south into Bots at Mahango. Then to Maun. Great campsites just south of Divundu eg Ngepi, Nundu (just check access in a 2WD). Drive through the park on the main road - you could get stuck on the river road.

4) Depends what you mean by the Okavango. To really see the delta you need to fly in (very expensive). You can also access a small area by car (Moremi) but not in a 2WD. On a budget your best bet is to take a short mokoro ride in the western delta. Stop off at one of the lodges on the panhandle (google Guma Lagoon and check for others nearby) BUT again check access for a 2WD. If that doesn't pan out go to Maun and go somewhere like Old Bridge Backpackers and take a trip from there (note though that they will drive you a few hours back down the road you've come in on...) You may be able to do a trip to Moremi out of Maun. You could drive all the way round to Chobe (camp in Kasane) via Nata. Great park and the only one in Bots where it's easy to get game drives/boat trips from town but a long way out of your way. Also consider stopping over at Gweta (Planet Baobab) and doing an excursion onto the pans (expensive again though).Khama Rhino Sanctuary is a great camping spot on your way to Gabs..

The more I think of it the more I'd consider just sticking to Namibia. The main roads in Botswana are fine for a 2WD but all the things most people want to do eg visit game parks etc need a 4WD or you need to go on an organised trip which in Bots is expensive.

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Itchy feet I'm not sure what you meant by the mokorro trip not panning out. They did not drive us down any road but took us up the river a couple of hours and then another few hours by mokorro.
I found it to be an incredible experience seeing an incredible amount of serious wildlife very up close
and personal. It was a great experience for everyone involved and the farthest that $90 has ever gotten me as a backpacker anywhere on the globe. You sound extremely caddy.

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Thanks all for the information and i have taken it all into consideration

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JACKYL01"Pan out" is colliquial term. It means "work out". So what I said was if it doesn't "work out" arranging a mokoro trip out of a panhandle lodge then go to Maun. I'm not sure how you read this as a value judgement on mokoro trips!! I think they are a great budget trip.

I was also pointing out that the OP will drive past the start point for the mokoro trips if he enters Botswana at Mahango and then drives to Maun. There is no way round this if you are on public transport but if you have your own wheels then obviously it makes sense to stop off en route and buy direct from the provider.

I hope that's a little clearer. But thanks very much for your contribution ...

Edited by: itchyfeet38

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