Finally last August (2009) I managed to take the train from Cuamba to Nampula.
It was me and my girlfriend and we took it on tuesday and I guarantee you (as previously
stated in previous posts) that there's no 2nd class on tuesday (but there's on wensday), but only 3rd one.
We bought the ticket the previous evening and started queueing at 4.00am.
Two different rows for man and women in the darkness of the night.
The train left at 5.30am and pulled into Nampula around 4.15pm.
It's not a cup of tea and I consider myself a seasoned travelller.
Enjoy
www.albytravel.com