I am planning to go to Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania this winter and would like to combine it with a week of diving in northern Mozambique, Quirimbas Archipelago. I have searched a bit on the net but have only been able to find lodges with astronomical prices. Does anyone know of good places to go if on a budget?
Also - does anyone know how the diving in Northern Moz compare to that of Mafia Island?
Thanks!!


If you are looking for the best diving in Mozambique, you must visit Ibo Island. To get there, you take a chappa (taxi) to Kassinga and a 45min Dow trip to the Islands. There are homestays on the Island. It is worh the effort an an unforgettable experience. In Pemba you can stay at Russels Place. If tou need more ino please don't hesitate to ask.

Hi!
I'm just back from the Quirimbas... Ibo is just a megical place which really worths the visit!
For accomodation, you have different options on the island. If you are looking for a budget one, you have a big backpacker called "Miti Miwire"... nice but not so budget and not very local. Then, you have a camping place, and finally you have a new "communinity lodge" called Tikidiri (supported bu Aga Khan Foundation). We stayed there for 3 days... extremely simple and basic but really nice! It is run by the local community which is starting to learn to work in tourism... still a lot to improve but they are very motivated! We decided it was great to support them!
For diving, 2 options: one is with French guys based at Miti Miwire. The other one is with a South African couple (Sarah and Arthur: http://www.fimdomundosafaris.com/)... they have a lot of experience, are really friendly but also very profesionnal. We stayed 2 days in their boat (what they call "liveaboard experience")... wonderful!!
Hope this help!
Enjoy the Quirimbas!!

Thanks both for valuable info. It sounds great - especially the "liveaboard". I will definitely look into it.
One question to you both though - what kind of marine life did you see during your dives?
I have read on the Internet about Mozambique having lots of big fish (sharks, whalesharks, mantas) but it wasn't particularly mentioned on the diving site.
Would love to hear what you saw during your dives there!
Thanks again :)

Southern Moz in the subtropical zone is known for the 'big stuff' The north is in the tropical belt and has more corals and plentiful reef fish. Mantas and whalesharks are rare. Humpback whales visit the whole length of coastline from July to Nov. In the north and especially the Quirimbas, there are sites with tremendous amounts and varieties of gamefish and pelagics, but you have to go with someone who knows the area well as you can dive a spot and not see any life, and an hour later it is teeming with fish. It very much depends on tide, current and wind direction. Barracuda, kingfish, mackeral, dogtooth tuna, jobfish etc On some spots reef sharks are common, turtles are bouncing around all over the place and resident dolphins patrol an area. Napoleon wrasse are common (ssh, don't tell the asian restaurants which have decimated this species in other regions), clown triggers, the odd leaf, scorpion, moray, plenty of large groupers - potato, malabar, giant.
Water temp now is min 25C up to 29 in Nov. Best diving months Aug-Nov. Jan-Mar can be washed out and dirty. AprMay good, JuneJuly often too windy although can have gaps with good weather and vis is not really affected - depending on which reefs you choose.
Accom - a few options now on Ibo as mentioned above, as well as TDM house and Cinco Portas and homestay if you want. On Matemo island, north of Ibo there is now a community site with chalets and camping set up by WWF. Currently no-one yet running it, but keep an eye out as it should happen sometime. You can reach here by dhow from Ibo.
In Pemba good spot is Nacole Jardim, on inner bay and also offer diving. North of Pemba by Rio Fumo is Sito(Situ?) Lodge - difficult to get to but stunning place and close to really good reefs off Quisiva island. If you can't find these places online contact www.kaskazini.com for info.

Wow - thanks so much for this information!! As it turns out we have now decided to go to Mafia Island in Tanzania instead (which I hope is also a good choice :) but I will definitely keep Moz and your advice in mind for next time! Thanks!

Hi
Ive been living in northern mozambique for soom time and recently finished managing a dive shop in one of the expensive lodges in the quirimbas and have to agree with everything said in posts 2 and 4.
fimdemundo are the best bet for budget divers in all of northern moz. Pemba has some good shops but the diving is not a scratch on the quirimbas. Ibo also has some awesome dive sites (Also the northern side of matemo). Wherever you dive expect pristine reef and great densities of fish but little in the way of the big stuff found further south.
There is also a nice budget place to stay in Pangane 40km north of Ibo, but from there to the tanzania border very little else.