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There are some mountains and cave paintings near Awsard I'd really love to see.
I have no experience beyond the coastal highway. A kid I met in Layyoune told me "some day you should come with me to visit my family behind the Berm" as if it were the easiest thing in the world. Maybe accompanied by a local it would be easy.
Will the roadblocks let tourists (American) into the interior in the first place? And what about places like Awsard which are just military/Peace Corps bases? And finally, what does one do to get across a minefield and behind the berm?

If paying for a guide is what it takes, I'll do it. I really, really want to see this region.

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1

As far as I know it's impossible to go from Moroccan controlled side. How did that guy come to his family?

And for sure you'll need a POLISARIO permit. Are you there right now?

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2

...... "Maybe accompanied by a local it would be easy." ..... if caught by the Moroccan security forces attempting without permission (which you'er unlikely get), after some rough treatment and maybe a "fine", you'll be deported either back North to Morocco or out of Morocco altogether. While your unfortunate Sahrawi friend(and family) will feel the full force of an oppressive regime. Sahrawi in company with foreigners are discouraged and separated citing security issues, the foreigner sent on their way, the Sahrawi detained and then some.!

Tensions fluctuate, small local issues can quickly get out of hand, one thing for sure is how the security forces deal with any incident. While you can always go home, bolt back to safety, the Sahrawi have nowhere to go, so be careful what you might get a young lad into. ... and to mention as far as I know Awsard is on the Moroccan side of the the Berm (big sand wall) not on the Algerian side, so this place is surrounded 24/7/365.

Earlier this year the Moroccan Government expelled the UN observers/peace-keepers only to partially allow them back some months latter.

This dispute is damaging to both sides, a blight on Morocco's good reputation for being progressive, the country has made huge strides in health and education, business and tourism, yet fails to deal fairly with Sahara Question.

I'm amazed at the polarised views of my many Moroccan friends in the issues above, for some no compromise could be considered, the Sahrawi are Satan incarnate in the extreme, for others they want them to be just Moroccans like themselves, except the Sahrawi just want to be themselves.

For research read these.... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Sahara
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Sahara_conflict
http://www.ibtimes.com/morocco-western-sahara-territory-dispute-sahrawis-growing-restless-economic-capital-2133770

Edited by moroccotraveler
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3

Ok, clearly I know nothing about the situation. Thanks for the links.
The place I'm thinking of, 'Devil's Mountain' is just across the berm from Awsard, about 12 km, so I didn't think it'd be that big a deal. But if I'd be putting other people at risk for trying, I'll forget about it.

I really can't wrap my head around the 'Moroccan perspective' on the whole thing.

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4
In response to #2

attempting without permission (which you'er unlikely get)

so there's an opportunity to get some permit to cross the berm, isn't it? do you know which department is responsible for it: MFA, MIA etc?

Edited by morkovkin
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5
In response to #4

...... for a tourist to get permission to travel with a Moroccan is fraught enough, it requires in triplicate filling-up forms, photographs of both parties and making declarations, stamping them, lodging one set with an office of a town/province, once approved you take the remaining two sets to the Royal Gendarmerie to be processed in "time"(sometime)...... so getting a permit to travel to sensitive areas of the occupied territories depending on security operations etc..... isn't easy if possible. That said, the checkpoints and the main routes used by the low number of tourists travelling there on the face of it seem "normal", in fact very secure for tourists, so long as the tourist stay on the predicted tourist trail, ie. mainly on the N1, Laayoune and the tourist area (sea and wind sports) around Dakhla. There are Sahrawi on the peninsula, these guys are kept away, and tourist business is steered towards Moroccan planters.

While I have travelled a bit around WS, mostly on the Atlantic coast, camping/fishing with an extended Saharawi /Moroccan family, these guys know when and how to move about, I'm sure they did't court trouble.! Boujdore my favourite place and I'm hoping to visit again.... Inshalla.

and I would't know the processes of getting a travel permit for a tourist to go to sensitive areas..... the status of which keep changing depending of security operations. Just don't involve locals with your desire for adventure, you can always go home, they can't.

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6
In response to #5

and I would't know the processes of getting a travel permit for a tourist to go to sensitive areas

And what about non-tourists: journalists etc?

Just don't involve locals with your desire for adventure, you can always go home, they can't.

But do locals cross the berm for their purpose? How do they visit their relatives for example?

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7

....... free press or foreign journalists aren't welcome in the WS. Travel while difficult and expensive can with some ingenuity be done via Spain/ Canary Islands or Mauritanian, if going to the Sahrawi camps like....
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sahrawi_refugee_camps

Tourists shouldn't try it.

Edited by moroccotraveler
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8

....... some recent news on the WS, to further inform you....

http://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2016/08/195390/armed-polisario-fighters-confront-moroccan-security-forces-guarguarat/

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9

I was traveling from Mauretania to Marrakesh on the main road and still 3 times minibus / bus was stoped by police and police was especialy asking all foreigners uf they are journalists or NGO.
It seems that they are not welcome at all.

If you would like to see how Sahrawi are living, then trip to north of Mauretania will be worth. (Yes, its not the same country, but quite simmilar)

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