Hello people,
I'm thinking about visiting Uganda and Kenya next year in March.
I'm considering spending about two weeks in Uganda trekking the Rwenzoris and relaxing at Lake Bunyonyi before making my way to Lamu on the Kenyan coast. While I really wanted to go on a short Safari in Amboseli or Tsavo East, the prices that I've seen had put me off completely.
Is Kenya a place where I can travel around relatively easily on public transport and and just enjoy being in Africa without spending too much on private transport and entrance fees? I guess what I'm trying to say is: I like African travel, but not African tourism necessarily.
I recently travelled in Ethiopia and Rwanda and I really liked being able to get everywhere on public transport and just explore places like Lalibela, Harar and Gisenyi on my own, without breaking the bank.
How much should I budget per day to travel Kenya without a safari? Is it possible to find clean, safe accommodation for around US$20?
Also, any recommendations for places to just hang for a few days.
Thank you
There are some great places to explore in Kenya that aren't "safari destinations" and that won't break the bank. Between Lake Bunyonyi and Lamu, there are quite a few places to stop and spend a couple days. This would be my itinerary... Jinja in Uganda is the "adventure" capital and has activities like rafting, kayaking, 4x4 buggies, etc. (activities like kayaking and renting a bicycle will cost you less than 25 USD), and you can also stay at one of the camps (like Nile River Camp or Explorers River Camp) and take short hikes and just enjoy the views of the Nile River. Most of these camps will have dorms or small basic bandas for under USD 20 per night. When you cross into Kenya, Kisumu is midway between Kampala and Nairobi and is a good place to stop for a day or two. Located on Lake Victoria, you can rent kayaks for USD 5, take a guided lake boat tour for about USD 15, or just sit and enjoy the nice sunsets with amazing fish from the lake. Guesthouses in nice areas of Kisumu will probably run you USD 25 per night (Duke of Breeze, St. Anna's). Kakamega rainforest is an hour or two away from Kisumu and is a nice place to hike, see waterfalls, and some wildlife. On the way to Nairobi, I'd recommend Lake Naivasha. There are some nice campsites with dorms and/or basic bandas for under USD 20 a night like Carnelly's or Fisherman's camp. Nearby is Hell's Gate (entry is 30 USD) and you can rent a bike (for USD 5) and can bike around the park, which puts you in very close contact to antelope, zebras, giraffe, and perhaps more exhilarating, buffalo.
In terms of transport, it is very easy to get to these destinations by public bus. In the cities, you can get around easily by motorbike or tuk-tuk. Kampala (and Jinja) are connected to Kisumu by big bus companies like Easy Coach. From Kisumu to Naivasha, you may need to transfer in Nakuru town, but it is still relatively straight forward to take buses. From Naivasha you can probably take a bus or matatu to Nairobi. From Nairobi, taking the train to Mombasa is a unique experience. Although it may take much longer than advertised, it's a unique way to get across the country and you cut straight through Tsavo National Park, which will give you a bit of a taste of the park without having to pay the entry fees.
Once in Mombasa, either you can stay in Mombasa to see the city and tour Fort Jesus or you can start your way up the coast. I'd recommend staying over in Watamu, Kilifi, or Malindi if possible. In Kilifi you can stay at Distant Relatives Backpackers which has dorms for around USD 10 or private rooms/tents for around USD 20. From Malindi it will take you another 5+ hours by bus to reach Lamu.
Hope that helps a little!
I definitely agree with kriedel's suggestion of taking the train from Nairobi to Mombasa, it's a classic journey.
If you want to stop in eastern Uganda rather than heading direct to Kenya, Sipi Falls is a lovely place to spend a couple of days, waterfalls, great scenery and good walking.
Hi, why don't you try 4 x 4 Kenya.com? The prices are the best we found at any time. We started using their services in 2004 and we travel almost every year. Every time we planed a trip to Kenya, we say we are not going to check other companies because 4 x 4 Kenya is great. But we still check and shop around........waste of time. 4 x 4 Kenya still the cheapest.
It is not only the price, it is the service in general. The satisfaction you feel at the end of the trip. It is about feeling safe and secure that if anything goes wrong, the owner of the company will be there in no time.
We were in Kenya in April/May this year and we are going in February again. Rest assure that we will be using the same company. The owner (George Muriuki) will go out of his way to please you and help you. www.4x4-Kenya.com
safe travel
I backpacked for 3 weeks in Kenya and would say that our days on Safari were the least memorable actually. We got everywhere by public transportation and it was totally fine.
Lake Navasha is really amazing, renting a bike and going into Hells Gate is great too. I personally would skip Lake Nakuru and go on to Lake Boringo. Or you can go up to Mount Kenya and stay for a few days. I think you can climb it with 4 days or so depending on your fitness.
We took the train from Nairobi to Mombasa but the train broke down. Luckily we met a couple on the train who drove us all the way to Lamu and let us stay in their house. Lamu is extraordinary. This was a few years ago so not sure what the security situation is like now but if you are staying in the middle of town I would think it is fine. Getting to Lamu by bus is not too difficult either. It is a REALLY rough road but worth the trip.
let me know if you have any other questions or want more specifics...
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