Depending on your budget Peponi's is lovely and a bit of a Shela institution, or else there are lots of rooms to rent. Quickest way to get there is to fly: direct flights from Mombasa, Nairobi and Malindi - it's just over an hour direct from Nairobi. Or you could take the train/drive as far as Mombasa/Malindi and then pick up a boat/flight, the road is not that great north of Malindi.

I'd also recommend Lamu. We stayed a couple of days in the Stone House hotel in Shela. It was a delightful converted Swahili house with a roof top restaurant. One day we walked across the island to the village of Matandoni. We also hired a dhow (just for the 2 of us) for 2 days. Sleeping on deck under a star blazoned sky was marvellous. Incidentally Lamu was the relaxed part of our trip after we had been gorilla tracking and trekked Mt Meru and Kilmanjaro. Our background is probably similar to yours - did this in our late 50's and were not focusing on a budget.
