Train

I've heard that the train is no longer running passenger service, but I don't really know that for sure.

FWIW: I took the train overnight in the other direction a couple of years ago. It was getting pretty decrepit, but not terribly far out of line by my exceptionally slack standards. The only other passengers were some Ashanti trader women and a few businessmen. I had a cabin to myself, and the train was a couple of hours late leaving and later still arriving in Kumasi.

The cabin was exceptionally hot and stuffy, and the fan had a bad bearing so it screeched loudly the entire night. I left the window cracked (with the screen closed), and while we were stopped at one of the sidings in the middle of the night a thief climbed in my window and tried to make off with my pack. We had a bit of a tussle about that, with me yelling whatever came to mind at the top of my lungs while trying rather ineffectually to batter him with my fists. He had a knife, and I got cut.

In the end, he realized he wasn't going to get the pack (credit goes to the PacSafe cable which locked it to my bed, not to my prowess as a streetfighter), and he loped off into the darkness. Eventually I roused the guard, who had been quite busy entertaining a woman in one of the empty cabins.

The moral of the story: lock your window and bar the door, and don't expect help if you get into trouble. And consider the inescapable fact that this train, if it's still running passenger cars, is really only for real diehard train fans. It's a lot easier, cheaper, faster, more comfortable and probably safer to take the bus.

But of course I knew that when I chose to take the train. Sometimes the fact that no one else seems to be doing it is reason enough to plow ahead.

Hope that helps.

Mark