Hi there,
OK, now writing from Addis.
We did a four day trek. The bus from Gonder costs 21.50 birr and leaves quite often, not only at 5:30am which is a rarity. dont listen to any of the touts in Gonder or the bored guys in Debark who want to be your guide and folow you around ad nauseum.
Simien Park Hotel (good place, rooms without/with private bath 70/180) is a good place to stay in Debark and they do good food and good draft beer.
If you head straight for the park office in Debark (about 500m back along the road away from town from then Simien Park Hotel) they can organise everything. The mandatory scout is 40birr per day and park fees are 70 birr for two days (inc. camping). if you want a guide he is 120 birr per day. we intended to take a guide but in the office they told us the scout knows the way and where the water is (there are actually showers at the campsites!) so unless we wanted more info we didnt need a guide, but they recommend. cooks are 75 and mules/muleteers are 35 each. the equipment costs around 30 birr for each piece per day. if you hire equipment there you will need a mule and handler as their equipment is very old and heavy, especially the cookers. You dont have to feed your staff but we shared tea/coffee, bread, dates and 'kolo' with our scout.
we had our own camping and cooking equipment and rather carry it ourselves than pay someone to carry it for us. It may be stubbornbut I couldnt help feeling like some sort of colonial lord if i would use a porter/mule if I cant make a trek with my own gear I would rather not go.
We trekekd to Imet Gogo and back over four days, like this:
Day 1 - Debark to Sankaber, about 30km, 9 hours, nice views over the escarpment and lots of baboons
Day 2 - Sankaber to Geech - 12km - 5 hours, more amazing views including one precipice.
Day 3 - Geech to Imet Gogo and Imet Gogo to Sankaber - 22km - 7hours, amazing views from Imet Gogo, well worth it.
Day 4 - Sankaber to Debark - slightly more direct route, no views but quicker, 6-7 hours
The fees cost 140birr per person and the scout 40 per day. Split between two of us it came to 440birr plus about 300birr for food and supplies (best bought in Gonder), because he had done what we expected a gudie to do we tipped him quite well (100birr, the average is 1days wage for every 3 worked). So 840birr between two people over four days works out at just under $10 per day. Of course if you want a guide etc it soon adds up. Also, we did not meet anyone else who walked out of Debark. most take some transport to Sankaber at least, and the charge for a one way trip is 800birr! I thought the walk was amazing although in the office they will tell you it is boring.
The trekking is not hard but carrying your own gear and food makes it slow going. If you are not at least used to some trekking you might find it tough.
Oh, and you can buy water purification liquid in Goha Pharmacy in Gonder for 4birr, just one drop per litre. The water from the taps at the camps looks crystal clear but you wouldnt want a dose of the trots three days walk from Debark!
We had rain on two evenings but nothing too heavy, I suppose it will get wose as the rains draw in more.