Single woman in 50s traveling alone from Cairo to Aswan

First, forget about the hijab. Not only will people think that you look grotesque and stare at you, but you might attract hostility from locals thinking that you're mocking Islam. People assume Westerners are Christians, and expect you to dress like a Christian - no veil. Just do like women expats: dress conservatively while on the street, which means wearing trousers or long skirts and shirts with sleeves (ideally down to the elbow; in any case, avoid showing naked shoulders) and avoiding cleavage. When on the beach or in posh restaurants or bars you can dress as you wish.

In Cairo do visit the magnificent Islamic Cairo neighborhood (in particular al-muizz street towards Bab al-Futuh and Bab al-Zuweila (including the visit of al-Hakim mosque, Beit Suleymani house, the towers of Bab Zuweila); Ibn Tulun mosque; Sultan Hassan mosque; the museum; pyramids at Giza / Saqqara / Dashur. Have a tea and a sheesha at cafe Fishawi in the Khan al-Khalili souk.

In terms of security you'll be fine as long as you stay clear from protests and dense crowds. Avoid carrying a handbag as handbag snatching is on the rise. Use only the official taxis (white ones have a meter).

When you say you have purchased a hijab and arm sleeves what, exactly, do you mean?
As far as I'm concerned, a hijab is simply a headscarf. But there are variations. And if you have bought a specially-constructed one then, as Cat says, you'll look silly and maybe even offensive.

Instead: -
get a lightweight, medium-large square scarf, fold it diagonally, and wear it bandana-style - tied at the back of the neck and covering all or most of your hair.

That way, you'll be modest enough for local sensibilities without offending anyone.
It will also protect your hair from the July sun.(plus you can get a super-conditioning treatment free if you slop on a bit of hair cream first, haha).

On clothes -
make sure to wear them loose and you'll actually find them cooler than t-shirts, etc. as it allows air to flow freely. And wear a cross-body bag with zip to prevent pick-pockets/handbag snatching. (I also wear a neck pouch with passport and credit card/main money stash hidden under my clothes when travelling - anywhere. It stays on me at all times except in the shower.)

Don't worry about traveling alone on buses, trains, etc. Most people are friendly and helpful. If you can speak a little Arabic you'll be able to talk with the women and you'll get along famously with them. They'll also shoo off any unwanted males (cos there'll always be one who will try it on, although asking is as far as it goes.

You're well-prepared. Have a lovely time and enjoy yourself.

Hi Jacki,
both previous posts give you valuable advice.
But I am not sure you go "well prepared" for your first visit in Egypt in defiance of the travel warning of your goverment (thats down and dirty as you asked ok??).
Which is your plan to deal with the practicalities of the holy month of ramadan (do you know that it starts next week?).
The hijab plan is not only wrong for the reasons noticed in the previous posts but will make you offending both religious communities of Egypt. You will offend the muslim majority who will expect a hijab covered lady to keep the fasting stricktly and of course you will slap in the face the almost 10 million christian egyptian community (especialy strong in luxor and cairo).
If you still decide to go my personal advice is you NOT go alone to do picture safari in places like islamic cairo the Aswan suburbs. Rather go to a medium budget hotel and ask them to provide you a local man as your companion during your picture session there.
As noticed by the previous posts trains are safe in egypt and there is no reason to change and fly between places.
All the best, Anas

Egyptians are used to tourists and all their eccentricities. We got by with jeans, t-shirts and sneakers. When we visited Ibn Tulum Mosque, were provided with shoe covers, but no robes as I've experienced in southeast Asia. One day is plenty for Giza--you can easily do Giza and Sakkhara in one day. Any hotel you stay at can provide a car with a driver--they usually have people they have provided for guests in the past and have had no complaints about. The hotel will be sensitive to your needs. Driver with car usually goes for E250/day (6-7 hours). Use common sense--at this time, I'd avoid the downtown area, which includes the Egyptian Museum, which is right in Tahrir. A shame, but there is also a small museum with some of the artefacts from Tuts tomb in Luxor, and Tuts tomb, in the Valley of the Kings, is well worth the extra admission price--Tut is now back in his tomb after a protracted stay in Cairo. Train is safe--night train with private cabin is the way to go. Expect touts all over the place, but just learn to say "no". Sheherazhade Hotel in Luxor--on the west bank of the Nile--was built somewhat in the Nubian style, which was quite interesting.

Ladies,

Thank you SO much! You have confirmed everything I have planned! (Except the hijab, which an American woman who lived in Egypt for a year told me to buy!) I have the scarves, and like the way you say to wear them, covering my blond hair (she said the worst thing is to have a blond pony bobbing!).

I have a man prepared to take/guide me in Luxor and Aswan (where an Egyptian man told me I should wear an abaya if I was allowed to enter mosque at all during Ramadan.) I also have a man guide and driver prepared to take me around Cairo and Giza for E100/day , but considering the unrest, have pretty much opted to fly to Luxor straight on, and avoid the northern parts all together for now. (Still a "wait and see" as the "48 hour ultimatum is now ended and SOMETHING is going to happen).

The tour guide/man in Aswan told me trains are always stopped during times of revolt, so I should fly instead. Shame, because I love the overnight train and already have tickets. Maybe I'll just take it from Luxor to Aswan and then back from Aswan to Cairo, if things settle down. (The news indicates turmoil in cities along the train route between Cairo and Luxor.)

From what I can gather, Nubia/Aswan is a separate entity, completely safe...and Luxor, since it is the tourist haven, will be the place for me to stay for 5 days, instead of two/three.

I love that you have taken the time to help me!

I have a cross body/zip bag and wear passport/essentials underneath/around my neck. I have purchased long sleeve blouses and long, long skirts of dark colors.

I CAN wear shorts and a sleeveless shirt when on tour in Luxor, right? I will put the long garments back on to tour the city...as I want to show respect in every way. I am SO ready!

Jacki

"48 hour ultimatum is now ended "
Not yet!
it expires at 14.30gmt
30 minutes after my post!

Anyway you look now better prepared! Cheers and all the best!

I sometimes see Western women covering their hair in Cairo and I can tell you that nothing is more entertaining than listening to what Egyptians passer-by say in Arabic.

Wearing a veil will not only turn you into laughingstock, but may attract hostility from locals who will think you're an ignorant tourist wearing a disguise and "playing the Muslim". Good luck dealing with people who will come and ask you to recite Muslim prayers to check whether you really are a Muslim.

As I mentioned before, do dress conservatively, but forget about covering your hair. There's no way you can hide that you're a Westerner, so just dress respectfully as an expat woman would do.

You should have a look at this video. A woman is being assaulted near a subway station in Cairo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMGQAbEA23Q

Does she look like an expat to you? Is she dressed according to local customs so as not to offend? Maybe her stripped dress is provoking the men assaulting her. Would it help to leave these styles of dresses at home? What do you think, Cat W? How about you, Go2? Are her clothes too tight? Are they offensive?

Edited by: molsons

You'd better find a clearer one, Molsons.
I've watched this one five times, even blowing it up to screen size, and I can't for the life of me see what's happening, though I'm sure it is as you say (whatever it is you're trying to say).