Egypt by your own or by a tour Agency

Welcome to TT mczuri. Firstly, your profile doesn't give much info about you - some background on nationality, age, gender, travelling experience etc might be helpful in answering posts. To put my answer into context, I am a British male in my mid twenties and speak a little bit of basic Arabic - the following is based on my experience and I can't vouch for anyone else. In particular you may find things vastly different as a woman travelling alone.

I spent a couple of weeks travelling alone around Egypt last May (2006). While the well-known highlights of Egypt - the Pyramids, the Khan al-Khalili, the Egyptian Museum, Karnak, Luxor, Valley of the Kings etc - were all spectacular, in my opinion by far the best thing about the country is the people. On the whole I found the Egyptians to be incredibly friendly, welcoming and hospitable, and for the most part incredibly good-humoured. I don't think I've ever been somewhere where I was made to feel quite so at home. On countless occasions I ended up chatting with locals, on buses and trains, in restaurants and cafes, while just wandering around the streets. I played football in the streets with kids, I drank tea and smoked shisha with stallholders in markets, I even had dinner in a house with a local family I met. I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that none of these experiences would have happened to me had I been on a tour.

The tour groups I came across, and there were enough of them, seemed totally exasperated with the Egyptians, and clearly went away with the impression that the people are all hasslers, hawkers, and rip off merchants. And I can see why. Around the major attractions there are a whole host of vendors, as in much of the rest of the world, selling trinkets, postcards, and photo opportunities at vastly inflated prices. These people are just trying to make a living, and for the most part they are actually just as friendly and good humoured as the rest. However, if you step off a tour bus in a big group of similarly underdressed, sunburned, camcorder-carrying westerners, these guys smell blood and will not leave you alone. As a solo traveller, however, a polite "laa shukran" and a big smile tends to do the trick. Additionally, on one of these tours you will see very little aside from the main sites. I spent days just wandering the streets of Cairo, and away from the tourist traps I barely saw any other travellers.

Finally, it must be said that Egypt is an exceedingly easy country to travel around by yourself. Transport is mostly cheap, efficient, and regular, accomodation is plentiful, and there is virtually no crime to speak of. As for any worries about the political situation or any hard feelings regarding Western policies in the region (again you don't specify your nationality), do not be afraid, Egyptians for the most part dislike their own government and would not want to be associated with its policies, they assume the same about you. The following anecdote is instructive: on a local bus from Luxor to Marsa Alam I was screamed at in Arabic by what turned out to be an Iraqi refugee, understandably bitter at events in his homeland. Half a dozen Egyptians on the bus got up and confronted this man, while apologising to me profusely in both Arabic and broken English. "sorry sorry, he not understand, is not you, is government, we know, we know." When the bus stopped for refreshments, by way of an apology I was ushered into a cafe and bought tea and shisha; for which no amount of insistence would persaude my fellow travellers to accept money from me.

By all means join a tour group - I understand why people do - but if you do you'll miss out on the real highlight of Egypt - the Egyptians.

I'm a woman in my 60s, and would second what jez said about travelling alone in Egypt - with one proviso.
If you're female, cover up well. Long, loose clothing - eg. drawstring light cotton or linen trousers with Kaftan-type top - will make a huge difference to the way you're perceived. A headscarf - even worn bandana-fashion - will make it even easier.

Also, bear in mind that street names and bus numbers are written in Arabic - you need to keep your eye on the map, or be confident about asking people to tell you where are.
[But taxis are not too expensive.]

Between 13 September - 13 October is Ramadan.
No eating, drinking or smoking in public and most if not all local restaurants will be closed between sunrise and sunset.
It WILL be possible to eat in hotels which cater almost exclusively to tourists and you might still be offered tea in, for example, carpet shops - though your host will almost certainly not join you.
Travel is almost impossible in the hour either side of sunset, unless you are already on a long-distance bus.
However - the night-life during Ramadan is AMAZING so don't let it put you off if that's when you plan to travel.

Thank you jezhealy. I have updated my profile.
Your experience is great, specially for the football game!! I remember watching in Essaouira (Morocco) lots of people playing football in the beach with no possibility of joinning them ..., just wishing the ball came close to you to kick them back ...
I know using public transport is the best way to know a country.
Maybe I'll ask more specific questions as I have more information about he travel.
By now, I'll travel with my girlfriend and I think nobody else will join. It will be her first time in an arab country, as we only did together the Patagonia trip, but I trust she will adapt well.
thank you again

i did egypt on my own and frankly i think the decision to take a tour or go on your own is exactly the same as in any other country. personally, i will never take a tour but some people wold always prefer it. whatever your basic disposition is towards tours should apply to egypt as well.