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Do we need permits to camp in the Black Desert and in the White Desert?
If so, where can we get the permits?

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No permit as such.

In the Black Desert you can just drive off the road and find a spot. Look for the tyre tracks off the side of the road.

The White Desert is a National Park so you should stop at the office on the way in (single story building on the left coming from Bahariya). It costs perhaps $5 entry and $5 to camp? Try and get the map (not always available) and you'll see where the allocated campsites are. They are just patches of ground - there are no facilities and there are (sometimes not very well marked) trails indicated by coloured markers. Find one of your own - there are plenty around- and it is very special to experience the place alone.

The Black Desert is nowhere near as impressive as the White Desert. There is nothing better off road from what you can see from the tar (we did explore in our 4x4). The White Desert on the other hand is magical. We intended to stay a night and stayed 4 switching camps each night for different amazing views and spent the hot days with a hammock at one of the tiny oases.

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Thank you! Is your experience recent?

Another point: while going around in the White Desert, is the soil sandy or hard enough for cycling on a mountain bike?

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3

We were there last September.

As you know I'm sure the tar road goes through both deserts. Off the tar there are no real tracks in the Black Desert - you would just follow other tyre marks. Sometimes this will lead you to dead ends, big gullys and the like. You are also likely to get some fairly deep sand.

Going through the White Desert you will find coloured markers at the roadside that denote trails. (unfortunately most of them peter out before long). These are all well used and you will find that for some distance off the tar the sand is pretty compacted and you will be fine on a bike. The further you go from the main road the more likely the sand will be a little deeper but to be honest you would probably still be OK. We never had to use low range on the Land Rover for example.

To summarise I have no doubt you could find a great camping spot in the White Desert on a bike - but you may not be able to go absolutely everywhere.

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No problem finding a decent camp spot within a few hundred metres from the road. Be on the lookout for a big dune or rock formation and you're set! Whether the road is sandy or hard depends on so many circumstances... For more info on cycling the western desert: www.cyclingegypt.com

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