You won't be the only traveller at this café, but that doesn't make it any less worthwhile. It's a 1642 gem with Delft-blue tiles and a central stove. The name, 'Papists' Island', goes back to the Reformation, when there was a clandestine Catholic church on the canal's northern side.

Papeneiland was reached via a secret tunnel from the top of the stairs – ask the bar staff to show you the entrance.