Escape the wheatgrass-and-tofu crowd and get your meat on at this unabashedly carnivorous local eatery, located about 1km north of town, on the road to Mae Hong Son. The house special (and the dish you must order) is 'larp moo kua', northern-style lâhp (minced pork fried with local herbs and spices).

Accompanied by a basket of sticky rice, a plate of bitter herbs and an ice-cold Singha, it’s the best meal in Pai.