Synonymous with sun and fun, Ko Samui is a bouillon cube of tropical paradise and modern convenience. The blue topaz waters heave and retreat in a rhythmic sequence and the coconut palms bow in agreement that you have indeed arrived in paradise. Leftovers from the backwater backpacker days might sniff that Samui is overly commercial, others are pleased to find it so civilised. Samui is so adaptable that its fans span the travelling categories: fortnighters, honeymooners and families, united in their love of sand and sea. The newest arrivals are health tourists lured by wellness centres that concoct rejuvenating tonics of fasting, yoga and ocean breezes.