Little Ko Mak (เกาะหมาก) measures only 16 sq km and doesn’t have any speeding traffic, wall-to-wall development, noisy beer bars or crowded beaches. The palm-fringed bays are bathed by gently lapping water and there's a relaxed vibe. It's a sweet place, despite sand flies and rubbish being a pain on some beaches, with a local movement that tries to keep the impact of tourism sustainable. The interior is a utilitarian but peaceful landscape of coconut and rubber plantations.
Visiting the island is easier in the high season (December to March); during the low season (May to September) many boats stop running.