Thai in Riverside, Silom & Lumphini

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Australian chef-author David Thompson is the man behind one of Bangkok's – and if you believe the critics, the world's – best Thai restaurants. Using ancient cookbooks as his inspiration, Thompson has given new life to previously extinct dishes with exotic descriptions such as 'smoked fish curry with prawns, chicken livers, cockles, chillies and black pepper'.

Dinner is best approached via the multicourse set meal, while lunch means kà·nŏm jeen, thin rice noodles served with curries.

If you’re expecting bland, gentrified Thai food meant for foreigners, prepare to be disappointed. Reservations essential.