Getting There & Away
Dalla-dallas connect Kilindoni with Utende (Tsh1000, 30 minutes) several times daily, and at least once daily with Bweni (Tsh4000, four to five hours). On the Kilindoni–Utende route, vehicles depart Kilindoni at about 1pm and Utende at about 7am; the last departure from Utende is about 4.30pm. Departures from Kilindoni to Bweni are at about 1pm, and from Bweni at about 7am. In Kilindoni, the transport stand is in the central ‘plaza’ near the market. In Utende, the start and end of the dalla-dalla route is at the tiny loading jetty between Mafia Island Lodge and Big Blu.
It’s also possible to hire taxis or bajaji (tuk-tuks) in Kilindoni to take you around the island. Bargain hard, and expect to pay from Tsh15,000 between Kilindoni and Utende for a vehicle (Tsh10,000 for a bajaji).
The other option is bicycle, either your own (bring a mountain bike) or a rental (from about Tsh500 per hour for a heavy single-speed; ask around at the Kilindoni market).
To get between Utende and Chole island, most of the Chole Bay hotels provide boat transport for their guests, and transfers can be arranged with Mafia Island Diving and Big Blu. Otherwise local boats sail throughout the day from the beach in front of Mafia Island Lodge (Tsh500). Boats also leave from here to Juani, and from Chole it’s possible to walk to Juani at low tide. To Jibondo, you can usually catch a lift on one of the water transport boats leaving from the beach near Pole Pole Bungalow Resort.