Kilindoni, where all boats and planes arrive, is Mafia’s hub. Here you'll find a bank (with an ATM), port, market, small shops and several budget guesthouses. The only other settlement of any size is Utende, 15km southeast of Kilindoni on Chole Bay, where most upmarket lodges are located. The Utende–Chole Bay area is also the main divers’ base. Mafia’s western side is dotted with small villages, offshore islands and sandbanks, and stands of mangrove interspersed with patches of beach. Many lodges are closed in April and May. July and August can be very windy on the eastern side of the island.