An intimate, remote camp in wonderful opposition to the large corporate lodges on the crater rim, Olduvai is built around a kopje with postcard views of Makarot, and it makes a fine spot to watch wildebeest during the rainy season. The 17 tents are attractive if sparse, but the dining room and lounge are lovely. It’s 3.5km off the Serengeti road (unsigned).
Maasai-led cultural walks in the savannah and nearby gorge are recommended. All accommodation bookings must be made through a safari company; direct bookings are not encouraged – staff wouldn't even provide a price for independent travellers.