A satisfying two-hour hike from Vershab leads to the summer pastures at Tagob. Or, if properly equipped, there is a steep two- to three-day trek to Hishortob in the Yagnob Valley.


Tabaspin Pass

Above Hairobod, a 10km gold-mining road presents a head start for a weeklong adventure trek into the Yagnob Valley via the snowbound Tabaspin Pass (4040m). Just up the valley, Langar (107km from Ayni) is a logical departure point, thanks to the utterly charming Kholov Homestay, which has its own mini museum-cabinet and can usually help with finding a guide, given some patience.

Zerafshan Glacier

Dehavz, a shrine village at the end of the 200km road from Ayni, is the starting point for hiking to the Zerafshan Glacier. The 4WD track ends 7km from the village from where it's a 15km hike to the glacier, whose loss of 2.5km in 90 years has been attributed to climate change. There is next to no tourist infrastructure here and the route has pretty much dropped out of the itineraries of tour companies, so a local guide is essential.