Utterly isolated, the wild-east town of Murgab is the logical base from which to explore the eastern Pamirs if you arrive without your own transport. Murgab's box houses and criss-crossing power lines don't create an immediately charming effect, but rocky bone-dry ridges create some interest, as does the ever-white bulk of 7546m Muztagh Ata which, on exceptionally clear days, hangs like a strange cloud upon the...
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