Just north of the junction for Iskander-Kul, on the outskirts of Sarvoda, there are a couple of popular restaurants for tea, lunch or dinner. With daybeds under the trees, right beside the Fan Darya, they offer a retreat from the heat of the journey in summer or a cosy indoor parlour for Tajiki soups in winter. The little booth at the bazaar end of the bridge serves delicious meat- or potato-filled pasties.