The journey between Dushanbe and Khorog can take anywhere between 14 and 20 hours, making it pretty much essential to stop somewhere en route. The town of choice for a night's stay is Kalai-Khum, and rising to meet this opportunity, it boasts a fine luxury hotel among other characterful and simple homestays. The latter offer beds or mattresses in shared rooms and hot water.
For those for whom patience with the badly maintained road from Kulob runs out early, then there are a couple of homestays in Yoged, an hour west of Kalai-Khum.
While most people eat at their hotel, there are several other options in town, dotted around the bazaar or by the river that cuts through the centre. The town's fine hotel also offers an international choice of cuisine for hotel guests (or non-guests who book a meal in advance) which may present a welcome change from local dishes.