Ishkashim (Ишкашим) is the Wakhan’s regional centre and largest community of any size. After hours spent travelling the lonely highway either side of this bustling town, it's quite a novelty to see people again. There are no specific sights at such, but it does make a place to stock up on water and other supplies. This is also the main border crossing used by most visitors heading for the Afghanistan Wakhan. It's worth checking the status of the Langar and Shaimak borders because if these reopen they will prove altogether more useful for reaching the Little Pamir.
The scenery here is quite distinct from the northern part of the Pyanj valley; from around 90km south of Khorog (15km north of Ishkashim) the narrow canyon widens out into ribbons of flat plains along the river's edge, so green that they almost resemble golf fairways.