This unusual combination of Soviet-era institution and grand Persian-style chaikhana, is the Dushanbe classic – a great place to sip tea (2TJS) or a Simsim beer (11TJS) while people-watching. Food certainly isn't gourmet but it's good value, especially for breakfast. Kitchens work all day even in Ramadan. Some people believe the red tables (front, north) to be better for food than the yellow ones, which has a different kitchen. Do peep into their remarkable wedding hall section (back, north side) with its magnificently faceted ceilings.