This gorgeous collection of old Japanese buildings was once the Xin Gao Hotel, used to wine and dine kamikaze pilots before their last flight. It's now a high-end restaurant (set meals NT$1280; open noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm) and a hot-spring spa with private rooms sporting black-slate tubs, tatami floors and dreamy views over Beitou, all the way to volcanic Guanyinshan.

Marshall Zhang was a famous 20th-century Chinese commander who kidnapped Chiang Kai-shek in 1936 to force him into a united front with the communists against the Japanese. Never one to hold a grudge, afterwards Chiang held Zhang under house arrest for the next 40 years.

There is a NT$150 admission fee if you just want to go in and see the buildings and grounds. There is also a beautiful teahouse (tea sets NT$450; 2pm to 5pm). Bus 230 drops you off right outside the residence.