South of Taitung

If you're driving south from Taitung, it's pleasant to stop in Taimali with its quaintly low-key Tuesday night market and a very long sweep of grey-gravel beach. That continues north past Huayuan Bay backed by a steep amphitheatre of green mountains where there are a handful of family-run coffee plantations, including Kintuka which offers free tastings to potential buyers.

If you are on a bike, however, be aware that the cycling shoulder lane ends past Chihpen and for stretches of Rte 9 there are essentially no alternatives to sharing the major road with thundering trucks. So if heading for Kenting, consider putting your bicycle on the train as far as Dawu.