With a name that makes English speakers titter, Titlis is Central Switzerland’s tallest mountain, has its only glacier and is reached by the world’s first revolving cable car, completed in 1992. However, that’s the last leg of a breathtaking three-stage journey. First, you glide up to Trübsee (1800m) via Gerschnialp (1300m; don't get off at Gerschnialp if you're continuing to the top). Next, another gondola at Trübsee whisks you up to Stand (2450m), where you board the revolving Rotair for the final head-spinning journey over the dazzling Titlis Glacier. As you twirl above the deeply crevassed ice, peaks rise like shark fins ahead, while tarn-speckled pastures, cliffs and waterfalls lie behind.
A glacial blast of air hits you at Titlis station (3020m). Inside is a kind of high-altitude theme park, with a marvellously kitsch ice cave where you can watch neon lights make the sculpted ice tunnels sparkle. There’s also an overpriced restaurant and a nostalgic photo studio on the 4th floor, which specialises in snaps of Bollywood stars in dirndls. Strike a pose with a giant Toblerone or an alpenhorn against a backdrop of fake snowy mountains from Sfr35.
The genuine oohs and ahs come when you step out onto the terrace, where the panorama of glacier-capped peaks stretches to Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau in the Bernese Oberland. For even more thrilling views, step onto the adjacent Cliff Walk, a 100m-long, 1m-wide, cable-supported swinging walkway that qualified as Europe's highest suspension bridge when opened in 2012. More ambitious hikers can tackle the 45-minute climb to Titlis' 3239m summit (wear sturdy shoes).
For winter sports thrills even in midsummer, take the Ice Flyer chairlift down to the Glacier Park, where there are free snow tubes, scooters and sledges to test out. The nearby freestyle park has a half-pipe and good summer snowboarding.
The return trip to Titlis (roughly 45 minutes each way) costs Sfr92 from Engelberg. However, in fine weather you can walk some sections. Between Stand and Trübsee, the Geologischer Wanderweg is open from July to September; it takes about two hours up and 1½ hours down. From Trübsee up to Jochpass (2207m) takes about 1½ hours, and down to Engelberg takes around the same time.
If you’re hiking, destinations from Engelberg include Gerschnialp (one way/return Sfr9/13), Trübsee (Sfr23/32), Jochpass (Sfr33/46) and Stand (Sfr38/53). Reductions on all fares, including to Titlis, are 50% for Swiss Travel, Eurail and InterRail pass holders.
The last ascent by cable car is at 3.40pm and last descent at 4.50pm; it closes for maintenance for two weeks in early November.