Top choice Bar

in Södermalm
© Adam Grimshaw / Lonely Planet
© Adam Grimshaw / Lonely Planet

An old-school Hammarby football-fan hang-out, Kvarnen is one of the best (and best-loved) bars in Söder. The gorgeous beer hall dates from 1908 and seeps tradition; if you're not the clubbing type, get here early for a pint and a classic Swedish meal (mains from 225kr). As the night progresses, the nightclub vibe takes over. Queues are fairly constant but justifiable.

Kvarnen also hosts a popular weekend smörgåsbord lunch (adult/child 275/140kr), which should always be booked ahead.