This St-Denis institution has the feel of a true Parisian bistro – packed, buzzing and full of attitude. It offers brasserie food that you wouldn't cross town for, but the menu covers enough territory to suit most palates. Its tartares and daily specials are well worth a try. Oh, and it's open on Sunday (a rarity in St-Denis).

It's also a good place to enjoy a drink any time of the day, although the terrace overlooks a busy thoroughfare.